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The Rohloff comes in a bunch of different combinations to suit different bikes, different budgets and different needs. I personally found it pretty overwhelming when purchasing my first Rohloff, so I’ll do my best to explain to you what everything means and why some features are better than others.
Oh, and if you need more convincing about why you should use a Rohloff hub, HERE are 15 reasons.
There Are Two Axle Types
Be careful when selecting the axle type, as you cannot perform a parts change to the other axle down later on. We recommend using the CC hollow axle in most cases.
CC – Hollow axle. You are able to quickly remove your wheel with a QR skewer. This is what we use and recommend to make wheel removal easy and to avoid having to carry a spanner.
TS – Threaded axle. A threaded axle is useful in frames which employ horizontal dropouts. The threaded axle has a much stronger grip in the dropouts and hence will not allow the hub to slide about.
There Are Two Types of Gear Mech
Internal Gear Mechs and External Gear Mechs.
There are three main advantages to the External Mech:
– The cables are much more sealed from the elements, allowing them to last longer;
– Disconnecting the cables is less fiddley, and;
– If your cables do sieze, you can change your gears with an 8mm spanner.
The only disadvantage to the external mech is the additional cost (~$100 USD). We think the external mech is worth the extra cost, as it requires less maintenance and makes wheel removal a breeze.
There Are Three Types of Axle Plates
Axle plates are necessary to fasten internally geared hubs to a bicycle frame.
The three axle plates available with Rohloff hubs are:
– OEM plate (for frames with Rohloff dropouts);
– OEM2 plate (for frames which have disc brake mounts or a support bolt); and
– Standard plate (or Torque Arm plate, for bikes which require the use of a torque arm).
The neatest solution is to use a frame with Rohloff dropouts and the OEM plate, like us. If you don’t have Rohloff dropouts you can use the Standard plate (with torque arm) for non-disc compatible frames, or the OEM2 plate for disc brake compatible frames.
The Monkeybone is a really neat IS disc brake adapter which integrates a support point for the OEM2 plate to mount. Your frame must have an International Standard (IS) disc brake interface on the seatstay, and your disc brake caliper must have a Postmount interface.
The Speedbone can fit onto an International Standard (IS) disc brake interface and becomes a support point for the OEM2 plate to sit.
There Are Two Types of Hub Cap
Non-Disc and Disc.
The disc brake hub cap obviously allows you to fit a disc brake rotor. Hubcaps can be interchanged if you decide later on that you want disc brakes, however we recommend starting out with a disc hub cap to avoid that hassle down the road. Disc hub caps add ~$30 USD to the cost.
Rohloff Use Codes for Many of the Above Features
OEM – This code refers to the OEM axle plate for those using frames with Rohloff specific dropouts.
OEM2 – This code refers to the OEM2 axle plate for those with disc brake compatible frames.
DB – This indicates the Rohloff has a disc brake hub cap. The DB model automatically uses the external gear mech, as the internal gear mech isn’t compatible with disc brakes.
EX – This refers to the use of an external gear mech.
T – This setup is intended for tandems, however the hub isn’t fundamentally different, it is just sent out with longer gear cables.
XL – This hub shell is designed specially for ‘fat bikes’. It is 170mm wide; 35mm wider than the standard size and is available in both CC and TS axles.
Hub Code Examples
Rohloff Speedhub 500/14 CC —– QR axle, non-disc, internal mech, torque arm plate.
Rohloff Speedhub 500/14 TS OEM —– Threaded axle, non-disc, internal mech, Rohloff dropout required.
Rohloff Speedhub 500/14 CC DB —– QR axle, disc (and therefore external mech), disc mount plate.
Rohloff Speedhub 500/14 CC DB OEM —– QR axle, disc (and therefore external mech), Rohloff dropout required.
Rohloff Speedhub 500/14 CC EX —– QR axle, non-disc, external mech, torque arm plate.
Rohloff Speedhub 500/14 TS EX OEM2 —– Threaded axle, non-disc, external mech, disc mount plate.
See if you can notice the difference between the following Rohloff hubs:
Colours
The Rohloff is available in three anodised finishes: Black, Silver and Red
Spokes Holes
The Rohloff is able to be built with either 32 or 36 spokes. Although a 32h Rohloff hub is still quite strong given the short spokes, we would recommend using a 36h hub for a bicycle touring application.
Our other resources on Rohloff hubs include:
15 Reasons to Tour with a Rohloff Hub
22 Ways to Run a Rohloff Shifter with Road Drop Handlebars
How to Build a Strong Rohloff Wheel
Rohloff Oil Change Instructions and How to Service
Everything You Ever Need to Know About Rohloff Hubs (Coming Soon!)
Great summary, thank you!
I hoped that over the years the price of the Rohloff hubs will drop, but they are still very expensive. If I look at the bikes in your recommendation list, when a bike is upgraded with a Rohloff, it costs 1000 Euro more.
I have a Shimano 8 speed internal hub on one of my bikes, and on many hills I have to get off. For my next touring bike, I definitely want more range, but I’m hesitant to go back to dérailleur, but the cost of the Rohloff keeps me back. Also in your article about budget bikes, you recommend saving on gears, among others.
Do you think the advantages of the Rohloff really worth that high price difference on a bike tour?
Or is this “luxury” terrain?
Above how many km per year would you invest in a Rohloff?
For the most part, Rohloffs are a luxury item. The only people who could genuinely regard them as good value are tourers who are doing big trips every year, or perhaps a cross continental trip or two. But put it this way, I haven’t met anyone who has been disappointed with their Rohloff purchase! Even cyclists who don’t do huge kilometres can enjoy the precision and maintenance-free nature of a Rohloff.
Don’t forget to update that excellent writing with the Rohloff XL and its 170mm OLD… 🙂
Ah, yes! That got made official after I wrote this. 😉
It does not change much, except that the XL hub is only available in 32 holes (no 36 holes option available)… We do adapters to get 36 and 48 holes if needed… 🙂
I have used these hubs since 2000, they are so fool-prof, easy to maintain, along with just cool! I run a Singulator tensioner, with an MRP urethane guide roller—-silent as a belt drive, and way more durable!!
I have 2 and am very disappointed. The hubs are amazing, the cost of servicing is ludacris. Look into the cost of maintaining the hub before purchasing (shipping from Canada to the US and back again is far from worthwhile).
I must admit, I’ve never had mine serviced! It looks like the cost of resealing in Australia is the equivelent of about US $175 including parts and labour.
Where do you get adapters for the XL to make it 36 holes?
It might be best to send David an email here for more info: dirtysixer@gmail.com
Thanks for a very helpful article Alee,
It sunk in much better than other Rohloff explainers that I’ve read, so I’m glad I came across it.
I’m planning to put a Rohloff Speedhub (and Disc Brakes) on a motorised Yuba Mundo V4 cargo bike. It will be used for 5 to 15 hours each week carrying 90 to 120kg at produce at the back and me weighing 100kg at the front. So I need sturdy Rohloff and wheel after reading your article, I think the Rohloff I need will be a
Rohloff Speedhub 500/14 TS EX OEM2 DB T with 36 Spoke holes
(And maybe a Monkeybone or a Speedbone)
I’ve had a steep learning curve with various cargo-bikes, motors, batteries, Brakes, IGHs, and Rims, and the brain is getting a bit overloaded. Would you mind examining my choices and reasoning, below?
TS
Threaded Axle to replace the very strong Yuba axle )being rated to carry 200k plus rider, and so the 36 spokes too)
EX Gear Mech For all the reasons you’ve explained
OEM2 Plate because my frame has disc brake mounts
DB
Disc Hub Cap of course
T setup for tandems with the longer gear cables – because the wheelbase of Yuba Mundo V4 is 1510mm
And is a Monkeybone or a Speedbone needed so that the OEM2 plate will mount so that I can mount the Disc Brakes?
Cheers,
Rik
PS Speaking of Rims, thanks for the Rigida/Ryde Andra 30 article too. I want to save weight on my bike but at the wheel level, I’m prepared to add a little for a low hassle ride. Though I’ve got a few others on the list including your other two recess (Ringle Rhyno and Velocity NoB
Also, I’m fitting Disc Brakes to my Yuba and I’d like to fit a 203mm rotor on the back. Is there any compatibility issue with the Rohloff. Do you know if they only fit 160s and 180s?
That looks sound to me! The Ryde rims are heavy but hassle free in my experience.
There’s no issue with 203mm compatibility. I use them on my tandem. Just make sure your Yuba frame has the clearance at the chainstay/seatstay for the larger diameter rotor.
Hi again Alee,
I lucked out and ended up with a ten year old Rohloff that had just 5 years of moderate use so it’s really just been worn in nicely. Unfortunately it’s only a 32 hole hub so I don’t know how much of load it will carry but it is built into a 26” wheel so I’m guessing that the shorter spokes will mean less spoke problems than on a 700 wheel. It’s a 26 x 1.75” Welded Rhyno Lite Sun Rim in excellent condition, so it will do for now, while I trial the set up. Now I have to work out how to mount the hub on the Yuba.
The Rohloff axle is 12mm (yeah?) but the drop outs on the Yuba are 14mm and while I’ve seen some dodgy fixes for that (like this one here: https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=86955&p=1271186&hilit=Yuba+Mundo#p1271186) I haven’t found a good work around. Especially, given the need to fit in the appropriate plate and the Monkeybone/Speedbone (which I’m not across yet). I don’t suppose you have any suggestions?
PS How do I set up to get notifications of replies on your page? Do I have to log onto Disqus? I’ve been posting all over the place and only stumbled onto your reply three weeks after you made it when I lucked onto the page while searching for more solutions.
Sometime in future, I might be tempted to have more holes added to my hub but I’m guessing that this would void the warrantee?
Thanks for that. So which brand of rotors do you use on your tandem (and with which lever/hydro/pads kit?
I’m not usually a top o the line big spender but I do want a bullet proof work horse and I particularly want this heavy workhorse to stop reliably. Unfortunately I hadn’t got to the bit about Rohloff being a 4 bolt disc mount, so when I saw a discounted Deore XT Ice Tech Set I bought it (and annoyingly I’d also seen a similarly discounted Magura kit – so if only I’d known).
Maybe I should be posing this question on a thread somewhere that is devoted to brakes but what I’m wondering is whether I’m going to get good braking results by using most of this Deore set (levers, hydraulics and steel pads – rather than resin) in combination with Magura Discs (or other), or whether I really should return those Deore, and get the Magura kit.
You’ll notice that I’m not mentioning the Rohloff discs (till now) which is because I’ve seen no reviews on those anywhere, good or bad.
Any thoughts?
My brake setup is Cane Creek Drop-V levers, stainless steel cables, Avid BB7 calipers, Avid front brake rotor, Rohloff rear brake rotor. The Rohloff brake rotor is great, don’t worry that you can’t find any reviews.
You’ll be fine using any 203mm rotors, but it could be nice to send the XT rotors back so that you can have a matching rotor set on your bike.
I’m not sure how to get notifications, but if you log into Disqus you’ll see a red marker next to your name at the comment panel whenever someone leaves you a comment.
The Rohloff axle is 9mm quick release (hollow axle) or 10mm bolt up (threaded axle). I’m not too sure how you’ll fit it into a 14mm dropout, but I presume that you’ll need to make an adapter to prevent it moving. How does the wheel sit in the dropout currently?
Yeah sorry, 10mm TS.
“How does the wheel sit in the dropout currently?” It doesn’t. I did (recklessly) just bolt it tight to test the motor, but only rode a couple of hundred metres to avoid damage.
It came in it’s wheel on the back of a tandem. It was mounted to an odd, custom built mount with a plate (OEM) and a Rohloff SPEEDBONE.
thanks