• Best Budget Gravel Bike Overall: Salsa Journeyer Advent
• Best Gravel Bike With Modern Features: Polygon Tambora G4
• Best Steel Gravel Bike: State 4130 All-Road
• Best For Rough Roads: Poseidon Redwood
• Best For Road Biking: Diamondback Haanjo 2
• Best Price to Weight: Poseidon X Ambition
• Best Classic Design: Marin Nicasio

The Long Version

Finding the best budget gravel bikes under $1,000 can be a daunting task, especially if this is your first bike purchase.

The good news is all of the gravel bikes on this list have been selected through our objective, data-driven rankings, which have been optimized based on our years working in the bike industry.

We have combed through hundreds of gravel bikes to find the best handling models, with broad size ranges, great features, adequate tire widths, suitable gear ratios, and all in the lightest possible package. All you have to do is decide on the features that best suit your needs.

We’ve made this buyer’s guide your one-stop shop for finding the best budget gravel bike. Accompanying the bike descriptions and score sheets are sizing charts that will help you pick the right size. We have even placed direct links to shops where you can buy these bikes, and have listed the shipping cost.

We have intentionally picked bikes that can be easily obtained in the USA (that’s most of you) and can be shipped directly to your door.

The author of this website has worked in the bike industry for over 20 years and has traveled the world by bicycle for over a decade. He has written multiple bicycle buyer’s guides that round up the best bikepacking and touring bikes.

All of this experience means that you can’t go wrong with any bike featured here.

Note: We may earn a commission when you purchase a bike through our links. This directly supports CYCLINGABOUT and allows us to continue providing high-quality cycling information to you.

Need To Know What To Look Out For?

To learn about the characteristics of a gravel bike and for full details of our scoring system, please check out the buying advice at the bottom of the article.

Jump to Buying Advice

The Best Budget Gravel Bikes in 2024

Salsa Journeyer Advent

Best Budget Gravel Bike: Overall

MSRP $999

19/20 – The bike that ticks almost every box!

Salsa has put a huge amount of research and development into its Journeyer budget gravel bike range. The attention to detail shines through in the bike’s overall design – it offers a choice of wheel sizes, exceptional tire clearance, stable steering, mounts for different luggage setups, ample bottle cage mounts, fender compatibility, and size-proportionate handlebar widths.

The Journeyer is just 26lb (11.8kg) thanks to its lightweight aluminum frame and fork. It features a reliable microSHIFT 1×9 drivetrain and can fit wide 650B x 2.3” tires (or 700C x 2.2”) for rough dirt roads. The bike has a particularly low standover height so it’s great for riders down to 4ft8 (142cm) who are looking for a perfectly fitting bike.

The only thing that kept the Journeyer from achieving a perfect score in our rating is the climbing gear that’s a bit high. If you live in a very hilly area, you might find yourself wanting an even lower gear (which is possible with a new front chain ring). That said, the standard gear ratio should be plenty low for most people.

We recommend smaller 650B wheels if you’re primarily cycling on dirt roads, and 700C wheels if you spend most of your time on pavement.

Determine your Salsa Journeyer frame size in the sizing recommendations section.

Salsa Journeyer Advent Overall Score – 19/20

	Characteristic	Numerical Data	Score
Steering Stability	Stable	77mm Trail	3/3
Low Climbing Gear	Moderately Low	26 Gear Inches	2/3
High-Speed Gear	High	100 Gear Inches	3/3
Maximum Tyre Width	Very Wide	2.3″ (58mm)	3/3
Tubeless Compatibility	Tubeless Compatible	–	3/3
Value For Money	Great	$999	3/3
Weight Category	Lightest	11.8kg (24.9lb)	3/3
Riding Position	Normal/Sporty	1.50	–
TOTAL SCORE			19/20
	Salsa Journeyer with 650B Wheels	Salsa Journeyer with 700C Wheels	Shipping Cost
	See Price	See Price	$150
	See Price	See Price	$75
	See Price	See Price	$100
	See Price	See Price	$85

Polygon Tambora G4

Best Budget Gravel Bike: Modern Tech Features

MSRP $899

18/20 – The bike with modern features that help yield a better-than-budget experience.

The Tambora is a thoroughly modern bikepacking gravel bike with features usually found on more expensive bikes. It employs a uniquely shaped aluminum frame with an array of mounts for racks, fenders, water bottles, pumps, and frame packs. There’s a carbon fiber fork up front to add comfort, and the drivetrain is a solid 1×10 model from microSHIFT.

This bike has a flip-chip system at both the front and rear axles, which allows you to change the handling characteristics of the bike. By flipping the eccentric metal chips, you can make the bike handle slow and stable for gravel roads, or fast and responsive for paved roads.

This virtually makes the Tambora a two-in-one bike!

The Tambora has an upright riding position and notably low climbing gears. This bike will be great for riding up steeper hills – especially if you’re planning on carrying some luggage.

Although it does look nice, a downside to the Tambora G4 is the cable routing for the brakes and rear derailleur. They need to go through the headset bearings, which makes fitting new cables a more laborious job than on other bikes. The steering speed is also a bit quicker/twitchier than we’d like to see, although it’s not unreasonable.

Determine your Polygon Tambora frame size in sizing recommendations.

Polygon Tambora G4 Overall Score – 18/20

	Characteristic	Numerical Data	Score
Steering Speed	Somewhat Stable	66mm Trail	2/3
Low Climbing Gear	Very Low	23 Gear Inches	3/3
High-Speed Gear	High	101 Gear Inches	2/2
Max Tyre	Somewhat Wide	45mm	2/3
Tubeless	Tubeless Compatible	–	3/3
Value For Money	Great	$899	3/3
Weight Category	Below Average	11.8kg (24.9lb)	3/3
Riding Position	Upright/Relaxed	1.56	–
TOTAL SCORE			18/20
	Polygon Tambora G4	Shipping Cost	Pick-Up
	Available Soon	$79	No

State 4130 All Road

Best Budget Gravel Bike: Steel Frame

MSRP $899

17/20 – The steel bike with a comfortable riding position.

The State 4130 All Road is a steel-framed gravel bike ready for fun. It has ample tire clearance and lots of bag/rack mounts making it ready for off-road adventures. The notably upright riding position will allow you to ride comfortably all day should you put the bikepacking mounts to good use.

The 4130 comes with a 1×11-speed drivetrain, tubeless compatible wheels, generous 2.1” tire clearance, and reliable mechanical disc brakes. State also has a plethora of budget-friendly upgrades to make this your dream bike (brakes, forks, gears, wheels) although those will put you over $1,000.

In addition, this bike is usually available in several fun paint designs.

The State lost points when it came to steering speed; it’s a bit quicker than other bikes here, making it feel a bit twitchy at high speed. The climbing gear is also higher than we’d like to see, however, it will be great for most terrain you encounter.

We recommend choosing smaller 650B wheels if you’re primarily cycling on dirt roads, and 700C wheels if you spend most of your time on pavement.

Determine your State 4130 All Road frame size in sizing recommendations.

State 4130 All Road Overall Score – 17/20

	Characteristic	Numerical Data	Score
Steering Speed	Somewhat Stable	64mm Trail	2/3
Low Climbing Gear	Somewhat Low	27 Gear Inches	2/3
High-Speed Gear	High	104 Gear Inches	2/2
Max Tyre	Wide	53mm (2.1″)	3/3
Tubeless	Tubeless Compatible	–	3/3
Value For Money	Great	$899	3/3
Weight Category	Average	12.4kg (27.3lb)	2/3
Riding Position	Upright/Relaxed	1.59	–
TOTAL SCORE			17/20
	State 4130 All-Road Black	State 4130 All-Road Copper	Shipping Cost
	See Price	See Price	$100
	See Price	See Price	$45

Poseidon Redwood

Best Budget Gravel Bike: Rough Roads

MSRP $999

17/20 – The bike with the widest tire clearance for rough terrain.

The Redwood shines though as Poseidon’s proper bikepacking gravel bike, that’s ready to take on any adventure. It employs a tough aluminum frame and fork with plenty of rack and accessory mounts. The drivetrain is a steadfast 1×10 model from microSHIFT.

The number one reason to choose this bike is the strong wheels and wide tires. The Redwood comes standard with 2.35” wide tires but it can squeeze in 2.6” tires if you need! The 650B wheels are connected with stiff thru-axles, and the rims are tubeless compatible.

The Redwood also has notably low climbing gears for a gravel bike, which is great for riding up steeper hills, especially with a bikepacking load.

While the bike is adventure-ready, it does have a few drawbacks.

It’s heavier than the rest at 29 lbs (13.15 kg). It also has a large-diameter alloy seatpost that rides very firmly (although the wide tires should regain most of that comfort). Lastly, the XL and XXL frames are not very tall at the front, resulting in a lower handlebar than similarly sized gravel bikes – tall riders take note.

Determine your Poseidon Redwood frame size in sizing recommendations.

Poseidon Redwood Overall Score – 17/20

	Characteristic	Numerical Data	Score
Steering Speed	Stable	70mm Trail	3/3
Low Climbing Gear	Very Low	22 Gear Inches	3/3
High-Speed Gear	Moderately High	96 Gear Inches	1/2
Max Tyre	Very Wide	60mm (2.4″)	3/3
Tubeless	Tubeless Compatible	–	3/3
Value For Money	Great	$999	3/3
Weight Category	Above Average	13.2kg (29.1lb)	1/3
Riding Position	Normal/Sporty	1.49	–
TOTAL SCORE			17/20
	Poseidon Redwood	Shipping Cost	Pick-Up
	See Price	Free	Free

Diamondback Haanjo 2

Best Budget Gravel Bike: Pavement

MSRP $999

17/20 – The bike that’s great for equal parts road and gravel.

VIEW AT REI

When you hear of Diamondback bikes you might think of budget bikes at big box stores. Nowadays, they sell their high-quality bikes at budget prices direct-to-consumer, and they feature lots of thoughtful details.

The Haanjo is an all-purpose aluminum gravel bike with a modern road bike aesthetic. It weighs in at 26 lbs (11.79 kg). The bike employs the Shimano Claris 2×8 drivetrain and mechanical disc brakes.

The 2X drivetrain is perfect if you envision riding on a lot of paved roads, as it has smaller ‘steps’ when you change gears, and a great high-speed gear for long descents. That said, you might find yourself needing a lower climbing gear if you plan on riding in particularly hilly areas.

The Haanjo also features several smart component choices, such as size-specific handlebar widths. Depending on the bike size, the handlebars range from 38 to 46 cm wide. This means the shortest riders will have handlebars 8 cm narrower than the tallest riders, which better suits their body proportions. This is a notable feature as other bikes save money by ordering a one-size-fits-all handlebar.

You also receive a free toolkit with purchase, and Diamondback has a 30-day no-hassle return policy.

Determine your Diamondback Haanjo frame size in sizing recommendations.

Diamondback Haanjo 2 Overall Score – 17/20

	Characteristic	Numerical Data	Score
Steering Speed	Stable	72mm Trail	3/3
Low Climbing Gear	Not Very Low	29 Gear Inches	1/3
High-Speed Gear	Very High	115 Gear Inches	2/2
Max Tyre	Somewhat Wide	42mm (1.7″)	2/3
Tubeless	Tubeless Compatible	–	3/3
Value For Money	Great	$999	3/3
Weight Category	Lightest	11.8kg (29.1lb)	3/3
Riding Position	Normal/Sporty	1.50	–
TOTAL SCORE			17/20
	Diamondback Haanjo 2	Shipping Cost	Store Pick-Up
	See Price	$85	Free

Poseidon X Ambition

Best Budget Gravel Bike: Price-To-Weight

MSRP $899

15/20 – The bike that’s exceptionally light for its price.

VIEW AT POSEIDON BIKES

The Poseidon X Ambition is the speedy sibling of the Redwood. Every part of the X Ambition has been built for riding fast – it features 700C wheels that carry speed well, and a full carbon fork that saves about 1 lb (450 grams) compared to an aluminum or steel fork.

Poseidon didn’t just have speed in mind for the X Ambition though. It features an excellent low climbing gear ratio for steep hills and a notably upright riding position too.

This aluminum framed bike comes in at a lightweight 25 lbs. (11.34 kg). It uses the same microSHIFT 1×10 drivetrain as the Redwood and mechanical disc brakes finish off a great bike.

A downside is that the maximum tire size is fairly narrow at 42mm, however, if you’re aiming for speed and only need the bike for light off-road riding – that is plenty of clearance. It’s also worth noting the standard wheels are not tubeless compatible (but a wheel upgrade kit is available for a few hundred dollars extra).

Determine your Poseidon X frame size in sizing recommendations.

Poseidon X Ambition Overall Score – 15/20

	Characteristic	Numerical Data	Score
Steering Speed	Stable	73mm Trail	3/3
Low Climbing Gear	Very Low	22 Gear Inches	3/3
High-Speed Gear	Moderately High	94 Gear Inches	1/2
Max Tyre	Somewhat Wide	42mm (1.7″)	2/3
Tubeless	Not Tubeless Ready	–	0/3
Value For Money	Great	$899	3/3
Weight Category	Lightest	11.3kg (25.0lb)	3/3
Riding Position	Upright/Relaxed	1.57	–
TOTAL SCORE			15/20
	Poseidon X Ambition	Shipping Cost	Pick-Up (CA)
	See Price	Free	Free

Marin Nicasio

Best Budget Gravel Bike: Classic Design

RRP $899

9/20 – The bike with the classic look.

VIEW AT JENSON USA

The Nicasio is a steel bike with a classic look but modern features such as mechanical disc brakes and internal cable routing.

This bike has a geometry that blends on-road handling while providing extra stability for off-road use. Its upright riding position, low standover height, and steel comfort make it a top choice for all riders.

The Nicasio is available in two great colors and has plenty of mounting points for any adventure that you have planned. The Shimano Claris 2×8 drivetrain is a bit more suited to flatter, paved roads as it has high-speed gears for descending. The bike is a bit heavier than most at 27.62 lbs (12.53 kg) but it’s not at all unreasonable.

This bike has the narrowest tire clearance of all of the gravel bikes on this list at 700C x 40mm. This is usually enough for gravel riding but could be a bit narrow if you plan on riding in muddy or sandy conditions.

Determine your Marin Nicasio frame size in sizing recommendations.

Marin Nicasio Overall Score – 9/20

	Characteristic	Numerical Data	Score
Steering Speed	Somewhat Stable	60mm Trail	1/3
Low Climbing Gear	Not Very Low	29 Gear Inches	1/3
High-Speed Gear	Very High	125 Gear Inches	2/2
Max Tyre	Somewhat Wide	40mm (1.6″)	1/3
Tubeless	Not Tubeless Ready	–	0/3
Value For Money	Great	$899	3/3
Weight Category	Above Average	13.0kg (28.7lb)	1/3
Riding Position	Normal/Sporty	1.53	–
TOTAL SCORE			9/20
	Marin Nicasio	Shipping Cost	Pick-Up
	See Price	$85	Free
	See Price	–	Free

Budget Gravel Bike Buying Advice

Frame Material

Aluminum – This is the most common frame and fork material in this price range. Aluminum provides the best balance between frame stiffness, lightweight performance, and cost-effectiveness.

Steel – People who ride steel bikes are often fanatics about them. They love the side-to-side flex that a steel frame offers, as well as the ability to easily repair the frame, should something break. The downside to this material is that it’s heavier than aluminum, usually by 2 or 3 pounds (1-1.5 kg).

Carbon Fiber – While there aren’t any carbon fiber bikes on this list, a few bikes do feature a carbon fork. Carbon forks shave off a pound of weight and can be more forgiving over bumps. A carbon fork is a great upgrade for those who are looking to squeeze out the most performance.

Drivetrain Type

1X – A single chainring in the front eliminates the front derailleur. These drivetrains are paired with a wide-range cassette at the rear so you can still maintain a broad gear range. The simplicity of a 1X system is appealing to riders who want ease of use, and less mechanical hassle.

2X – A double chainring drivetrain offers a broader range of gear ratios by featuring two front chainrings. This allows for smaller differences between gears on the rear cassette, providing a more consistent cadence (pedalling speed in RPM) across a wider range of speeds, gradients, and terrains. A 2X setup is a great choice for people who will do a lot of paved road riding.

Wheel Size

The choice of wheel size ultimately comes down to personal preference, some companies such as State Bicycle offer a second wheelset for an additional fee, and other companies like Salsa offer the same model in both wheel sizes.

700C (29″) – 700C has been the standard road bike wheel size for decades. Its large diameter allows for a greater rollover capability, so 700C can clear obstacles easily while carrying more momentum. This makes them ideal for riders who prefer to ride faster with greater efficiency.

650B (27.5”) – By reducing the rim size, you can fit higher-volume tires on the same gravel bike frame. Wider tires provide more grip and reduce body fatigue on rough terrain. This wheel size is ideal for those who want to prioritize bike control and ride comfort.

Handlebar Type

There are advantages and disadvantages to drop bars and flat bars, and your choice ultimately boils down to how you want to use your bike. You can read our full pros/cons article about handlebar type HERE.

Drop Bars (Curly Ones) – These bars offer a more aerodynamic riding position that is ideal for long days on the bike. and more hand positions than their flat bar counterparts. Due to their narrower width, they are often better for squeezing between cars and urban obstacles.

Flat Bars (Not Curly Ones) – Flat bars offer extra steering leverage for better bike control, and the ride position they put you in is usually a bit more upright. This makes them a great option for beginners. Our list of the best flat bar gravel bikes (under $1000) is coming soon.

The CYCLINGABOUT Scoring System

Steering Speed

We assign:
3 points to a bike with a trail of 68mm or more
2 points to a bike with a trail between 61 and 68mm
1 point to a bike with a trail 60mm or less.

Steering speed is an important part of our rankings. We use the ‘trail’ measurement, which gives us the best approximation of how a bike’s steering will feel to you the rider. This article on Bike Insights gives a great in-depth analysis of what constitutes trail.

Generally, mountain bikes have the highest trail figure (90-130mm), resulting in a slow steering feel. This keeps them extremely stable at high speeds, especially when combined with a wide flat handlebar and short stem.

On the opposite end, road bikes generally have the lowest trail figure (50-70mm), resulting in a quick steering feel that best suits the characteristics of a narrow drop bar and longer stem.

Low Climbing Gear

We assign:
3 points to a bike with a climbing gear of below 24 gear inches
2 points to a bike with a climbing gear between 24 and 28 gear inches
1 point to a bike with a climbing gear above 28 gear inches

We measure the lowest and highest gears on a gravel bike using “gear inches”. They are calculated using the diameter of your wheel, multiplied by the front sprocket, and divided by your rear cog. That gives us a convenient two or three-digit number to compare bikes that use different wheel sizes and tire widths.

The good news is that you don’t have to calculate the gear inches manually, websites like Gear-Calculator work them out for you.

On a gravel bike, the ideal climbing gear is generally 24 gear inches or below as this gear allows you to pedal comfortably up a steep hill at 7kph/4mph. 24 to 28 gear inches is generally acceptable on moderately steep terrain, and 28 or above is better suited to milder gradients.

High-Speed Gear

We assign:
2 points to a bike with a high-speed gear above 100 gear inches
1 points to a bike with a high-speed gear below 100 gear inches

At the other end of the scale, the ideal high gear is somewhere over 100 gear inches. This will give you enough gears to pedal down a hill at 48kph/30mph. Stepping up to 125 gear inches for your high-speed gear, and you can still pedal at 60kph/37mph.

Maximum Tire Size

We assign:
3 points to a maximum tire width of 47mm or wider
2 points to a max tire width of 42 to 47mm
1 point to a max tire width of 42mm or narrower

The maximum tire width is determined by frame and fork clearance. Bikepackers typically choose the widest tire available, as the wider the tire the more varied the terrain you can ride. This is why bikes with a larger tire clearance received higher scores in our rankings.

Wider tires have a larger contact patch with the ground. This gives you more grip as you navigate challenging terrain. A wider tire can also absorb vibrations and impacts more effectively, providing a smoother overall ride.

The good news is that wider tires won’t slow you down much because it’s the tire’s rubber compound that primarily (~80%) determines rolling resistance. In fact, some wide/nobby mountain bike tires roll much faster than slick road bike tires!

Tubeless Compatibility

We assign:
3 points to a bike that has tubeless compatible wheels
0 points to a bike that has tube-only wheels

Tubeless – A tubeless setup has a reduced risk of flats due to the latex-based sealant inside. The sealant is to self-seal small punctures caused by thorns or debris.

A tubeless setup also allows riders to run lower tire pressure for a more cushioned ride without the risk of pinch flats. To run a tubeless setup, both the rim and tires need to be tubeless compatible. The initial setup requires a bit of familiarity with putting sealant into tires and seating the tire on the rim.

The ranking system we use places a lot of emphasis on bikes with tubeless compatibility, as it is such great convenience.

Tubes – Tires with tubes are easier to install and more straightforward for most users. It’s worth noting that all tubeless wheels can fit tubes.

Value For Money

We assign:
3 points to a very good value bike
2 points to a good value bike
1 point to a bike of ok value-for-money

Admittedly, this metric is rather subjective, however, we have a good sense of the quality of the frame, fork, and components and whether they match the asking price of the bike.

Weight

We assign:
3 points to a bike under 12kg (26.5lb)
2 points for a bike between 12-13kg (26.5-28.7lb)
1 point for a bike over 13kg and over (28.7lb)

Weight is one of the easiest things to measure on a bicycle, so it is often the emphasis. However, it’s our opinion that bike weight matters much less than you think. This is because a 1kg (2.2lbs) heavier bike usually only results in a one or two-minute time penalty over a 100km (62mi) hilly ride.

Nonetheless, a lightweight gravel bike often uses higher-quality components and materials, so this is still an important metric.

Riding Position

We use the average stack-to-reach ratio of all frame sizes to determine whether a bike has a ‘sporty’ or ‘relaxed’ riding position. This metric gives us an idea of how high the handlebar is relative to your saddle height.

Normal/Sporty means the bike’s handlebar is a typical height compared to other gravel bikes. A bike is considered sporty when the average stack-to-reach ratio is under 1.55.

Upright/Relaxed means the bike’s handlebar is higher than average compared to other gravel bikes. A bike is considered ‘relaxed’ when the average stack-to-reach ratio is 1.55 or above.

It’s worth noting that you can turn a ‘sporty’ bike into a ‘relaxed’ bike by increasing a bike’s handlebar height using a riser stem or steerer tube extender. These products normally add 25 to 75mm (1-3″) of bar height.

Sizing Recommendations

Simply find your height and inseam on these charts to determine the size(s) that will fit you.

If you’re on the boundary between two sizes, those with a long inseam often prefer the taller handlebar height of the bigger frame size. Conversely, if you’d like a lower handlebar height for a performance-oriented riding position, simply choose the smaller size.

The frame standover is the measurement from the ground to the top tube (50mm/2.0″ in front of the bottom bracket). Ideally, this measurement is less than your inseam so that your crotch has clearance over the bike frame.

Salsa Journeyer Advent

	Salsa Journeyer with 650B Wheels	Salsa Journeyer with 700C Wheels	Shipping Cost
	See Price	See Price	$150
	See Price	See Price	$75
	See Price	See Price	$100
	See Price	See Price	$85

Polygon Tambora G4

	Polygon Tambora G4	Shipping Cost	Pick-Up
	Coming Soon	$79	No

State 4130 All-Road

	State 4130 All-Road Black	State 4130 All-Road Copper	Shipping Cost
	See Price	See Price	$100
	See Price	See Price	$45

Poseidon Redwood

	Poseidon Redwood	Shipping Cost	Pick-Up
	See Price	Free	Free

Diamondback Haanjo 2

	Diamondback Haanjo 2	Shipping Cost	Store Pick-Up
	See Price	$85	Free

Poseidon X Ambition

	Poseidon Redwood	Shipping Cost	Pick-Up
	See Price	Free	Free

Marin Nicasio

	Marin Nicasio	Shipping Cost	Pick-Up
	See Price	$85	Free
	See Price	–	Free

The post The 7 Best Budget Gravel Bikes With Drop Bars (Under $1000) appeared first on CYCLINGABOUT.

• Best Rear Rack Overall: Tubus Logo Classic
• Best For Full Suspension Bikes: Old Man Mountain Divide
• Best Carbon Fiber Rack: Tailfin Carbon Rack
• Best For Easy Take Off: Ortlieb Quick Rack
• Best Bikepacking Minimalist Rack: Tubus Vega Classic
• Best Titanium Rack: Tubus Airy
• Best For Using Cargo Cages: Tumbleweed Mini Pannier Rack
• Best Bombproof Rack For Very Wide Tires: Surly Rear Rack
• Best Bombproof Rack For Wide Tires: Tubus Grand Tourer
• Best Budget Rack: Iberia RA5

The Long Version

Racks are one of the most likely components to fail on a bicycle trip. The good news is that when you pick the right rack, you almost certainly won’t get stranded in the middle of nowhere. The best rear racks will last a lifetime, so invest once and get it right – and you’ll never have to do it again.

To start, it’s crucial to consider which models will fit on your bike. Some racks attach only via dedicated rack eyelets on the rear triangle of your frame. Other racks have ‘fit kits’, making them almost universal.

Some racks have very high weight capacities, so if you are planning on an around-the-world trip, a rack with a high capacity and stiffness will be the go (you never know when you need to strap a couple of gallons of water to your bike).

We will also be showcasing lots of lightweight racks, heavy-duty racks, and racks that fit wide tires.

Note: We may earn a commission when you purchase a rack through our links. This directly supports CYCLINGABOUT and allows us to continue to provide high-quality cycling information to you.

Need To Know What To Look Out For?

To learn about the key features of racks along with specific details to look for, check out the Buying Advice section at the bottom. This includes lots of handy information to assist you in making the right purchase choice.

Jump to Buying Advice

The Best Rear Racks

Tubus Logo Classic

Best Rear Rack Overall

Price: $185 ($$$)

Weight Capacity: 57.3lbs / 26kg

Rack Weight: 1.38lbs / 630g

Tire Clearance: 29 x 2.35″

The Tubus Logo Classic is perhaps the most well-regarded rack in the world, in fact, the author of this website has used Tubus Logo racks for over 100,000mi (160,000km) of touring around the world!

The steel Logo is built narrower than most racks and hangs your panniers one level lower; lowering the center of gravity and improving your bike’s stability. These dedicated pannier rails additionally provide clearance above the panniers for a dry bag, or “rack pack” on the top platform.

If your bike frame has short chain stays, or you have big feet, the Logo puts your panniers extra far back to gain heel clearance. This makes the Logo great for gravel bikes that tend to have shorter chain stays than usual.

The rack comes in two different sizes: one for 26″/700C wheels and one for 27.5/29″ wheels. If in doubt, simply go for the Logo 29 model (it’s an inch taller). We have fitted 27.5 x 2.6″ tires into the Logo 29 rack with enough clearance on either side.

Here’s the cool thing about Tubus – they make racks, and that’s it! They have been rack specialists for over 30 years, and are so confident in their product that they back all their racks with a 3-year mobile warranty. This means that if you experience a failure within the first three years of use, Tubus will ship you replacement parts anywhere in the world. That’s unbeatable peace of mind for a bike traveler, and it’s followed up with a 10-year regular warranty.

You can fit the Tubus Logo to some bikes without rack mounts. If your rear wheel axle is quick-release, you can use the Tubus Adapter Set for the lower mounts, and a Salsa Rack Lock seatpost clamp for the upper struts.

	Tubus Logo Classic Black	Tubus Logo Classic Silver	Tubus Logo 29 Black
	See Price	See Price	See Price
	See Price	See Price	See Price

Old Man Mountain Divide

Best For Full Suspension Bikes

Price: $168 ($$$)

Weight Capacity: 70lbs / 31.8kg when axle-mounted

Rack Weight: 2.1lbs / 960g

Tire Clearance: 29 x 3.0″

What sets the Old Man Mountain rack apart is its adaptability. Unlike traditional racks, its compatible with a wide range of bikes including full-suspension bikes. The innovative attachment system means you don’t need rack mounts, making it incredibly versatile and easy to install.

This rack’s solid construction guarantees stability under heavy loads, and the low pannier rails and height adjustability keep your bike feeling nimble over rough terrain thanks to a reduced center of gravity.

The Old Man Mountain Divide has a notably spacious platform on top to cinch down an extra large dry bag. It’s one versatile rack that provides ample flexibility for your next off-road adventure.

There are two models to choose from. The Regular will suit tires up to 3.0″ wide, while the Fat is designed around tires between 3.0″ to 5.0″!

The only notable downside is that with so many fit kit options, it can be a bit complicated to figure out which one to order. Make sure to check out the Old Man Mountain website, which will help guide you through the steps.

	Old Man Mountain Divide (3.0″)	Old Man Mountain Divide Fat (5.0″)
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Tailfin Carbon Rack

Best Carbon Fiber

Price: $465 ($$$$$)

Weight Capacity: 59.5lbs / 27kg

Rack Weight: 11.8oz / 335g (with pannier mounts fitted)

Tire Clearance: 29 x 2.9″

Tailfin’s unique ultralight racks have brought a new perspective to bike travel.

Their modular packing system is based on a lightweight rack that is compatible with 99% of bikes on the market. The mounting design lets you attach a rack to your seat post and thru-axle (or via traditional threaded rack mounts if you have them). Once you initially install the hardware, you can then take the rack on and off in seconds.

A Tailfin rack can be used to mount any of Tailfin’s extensive line of specially designed panniers and bags – we especially like the Tailfin AP20 Trunk Bag and various panniers. Alternatively, if you already have a favorite pannier set, you can fit them too with the right adapters.

There is great heel clearance on this model, and it’s full-suspension compatible thanks to its special pivot design. In addition, it can clear wide off-road tires to the tune of 26×4.0, 27.5×3.5, and 29×2.9.

If you like this rack concept but the carbon model is too expensive, a heavier alloy version drops the price by a third, and offers cargo cage mounts for additional bag options. A cool thing is that Tailfin products are designed to be modular, so if you initially purchased the alloy rack you can later buy carbon arch and top stay, and switch over to a lighter rack.

	Tailfin Carbon Rack	Tailfin Alloy Rack
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Ortlieb Quick Rack

Best For Easy Take Off

Price: $100 ($$)

Weight Capacity: 44.1lbs / 20kg

Rack Weight: 1.2lbs / 580g

Tire Clearance: 2.35″

Ortlieb is synonymous with rugged bike travel thanks to their durable panniers that have been a bike travel staple for over 40 years. Recently they have brought their German engineering and durability to the lightweight bike rack market.

The Ortlieb Quick Rack quickly transforms whatever bike you have into a bike for short tours or around-town errands. Similar to the Tailfin, it fits 99% of bikes on the market, and once you do the initial hardware attachment, it takes just seconds to fit or remove the rack.

There are two versions of the Quick Rack. The regular model has a platform on top if you want to cinch down a dry bag or fit a “rack pack”. If you are only using panniers, the Quick Rack Light will be the go. It eliminates the upper platform, which reduces the weight by 5.3 oz (150 g).

The Quick Racks are also compatible with Ortlieb’s vast line of panniers. It’s important to remember that this rack isn’t a replacement for a permanent rack, and it’s vital to stick to the weight capacity, or you can risk damage or breakage.

	Ortlieb Quick Rack (Platform)	Ortlieb Quick Rack Light (No Platform)
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Tubus Vega Classic

Best Minimalist Rack

Price: $150 ($$$)

Weight Capacity: 55lbs / 25kg

Rack Weight: 1.2lbs / 540g

Tire Clearance: 2.35″

The Tubus Vega is the sleeker and lighter alternative to the Logo (featured above). By omitting the lower pannier rails of the Logo, the Vega can be built lighter while maintaining a very respectable load capacity.

Built on Tubus’ legacy of engineering, the Vega exemplifies reliability, making it an ideal choice for moderate loads. Whether you opt for a dry bag on top of the rack, panniers, or both – the Vega accommodates the usual gear configurations with ease.

As it uses the upper platform of the rack for mounting panniers, you get some extra ground clearance compared to other racks for navigating challenging terrain.

The rack comes in two different sizes: one for 26″/700C wheels and one for 27.5/29″ wheels. If in doubt, simply go for the Vega 29 model (it’s an inch taller). We have fitted 27.5 x 2.8″ tires into the Vega 29 rack with enough clearance on either side.

Like all Tubus racks, if you experience a failure within the first three years of use, Tubus will ship you replacement parts anywhere in the world. This is unbeatable peace of mind for a bike traveler!

You can fit the Tubus Vega to some bikes without rack mounts. If your rear wheel axle is quick-release, you can use the Tubus Adapter Set for the lower mounts, and a Salsa Rack Lock seatpost clamp for the upper struts.

	Tubus Vega Classic 26″ or 700C Black	Tubus Vega Classic 29″ Black
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Tubus Airy

Best Titanium Rack

Price: $399 ($$$$$)

Weight Capacity: 57.3lbs / 26kg

Rack Weight: 12.7oz / 360g

Tire Clearance: 700 x 47mm

The Tubus Airy boasts an irresistible coolness factor, proudly holding the title as the pioneering titanium rack in the market. Its titanium build strikes an impeccable balance between featherlight design and unwavering durability.

Despite its remarkable lightweight nature, the Airy stands strong and is capable of handling impressive loads. It’s rated to carry 57.3 lbs (26 kg) while tipping the scales at a mere 12.7 oz (360 grams). Yep, it can carry 72 times its weight!

For those meticulously counting every gram yet wanting the flexibility to use any type of pannier (or secure a dry bag on top), this rack fits the bill perfectly.

Moreover, any travel-induced scratches or blemishes on your Airy can be easily buffed out. This makes the Airy not just strong but forever new-looking.

You can fit the Tubus Airy to some bikes without rack mounts. If your rear wheel axle is quick-release, you can use the Tubus Adapter Set for the lower mounts, and a Salsa Rack Lock seatpost clamp for the upper struts.

	Tubus Airy Titanium
	See Price

Tumbleweed Mini Pannier Rack

Best Rack For Cargo Cages

Price: $139 ($$$)

Weight Capacity: 66lbs / 30kg

Rack Weight: 12.7oz / 660g

Tire Clearance: 29 x 3.5″

As the 2020 Bikepacking.com Gear of the Year Award recipient, this rack stands out as an excellent choice for adventure cyclists – this steel rack can withstand proper off-road terrain.

The steel Mini Pannier Rack has triple boss mounts on the legs so you can mount cargo cages, or water bottle cages with expandable capacity for trips like the Baja Divide. The platform on the top is generously large (12″ x 5″), which will be perfect for cinching down an extra-large dry bag.

Despite its versatility, the Mini Pannier Rack isn’t for everyone – it’s best paired with mini bikepacking panniers that match the small surface area of the rack. You will also have to have threaded bosses on your frame to mount this rack (it’s not thru-axle compatible).

It’s worth noting there is another Tumbleweed rack model called the T Rack, which is an extra-minimalist version that’s not intended to fit panniers. Instead, you will be using cargo cages for your luggage on the sides, and the top platform will be a great substitute for a bikepacking seat pack.

Both racks have notably large tire clearance for up to 26 x 4.75” or 29 x 3.5″.

	Tumbleweed Mini Pannier Rack	Tumbleweed T Rack
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Surly Rear Rack

Best Bombproof Rack For Very Wide Tyres

Price: $155 ($$$)

Weight Capacity: 80lbs / 36kg

Rack Weight: 2.78lbs / 1.26kg

Tire Clearance: 29 x 3.0″

On the hunt for an ultra-durable rack with wide tire clearance? Look no further. The Surly rear rack is the epitome of robustness, boasting an impressive maximum weight limit that embodies Surly’s reputation for durability.

What distinguishes the Surly Rear rack from Tubus options is its height adjustability. This feature ensures compatibility with various tire sizes and also helps keep your weight and center of gravity as low as possible for improved stability.

This steel rack comes in black or silver and tips the scales at almost three pounds making it the heaviest contender on our list. However, keep in mind its 80-pound (36kg) weight capacity surpasses most bike racks – your legs will probably give out before this rack does.

	Surly Rear Rack Black	Surly Rear Rack Silver
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Tubus Grand Tour

Best Bombproof Rack For Wide Tyres

Price: $255 ($$$$)

Weight Capacity: 88lbs / 40kg

Rack Weight: 1.68lbs / 760g

Tire Clearance: 29 x 2.35″

The ultimate round-the-world touring rack is the Tubus Grand Tour. This steel rack has the highest weight capacity of any rack here, and all in a package that’s 40% lighter than the Surly Rear Rack!

There are finer details on the Grand Tour that make it a bit more expensive too, such as the lower mounting points (3D printed) that do not require any additional spacers, even with disc brakes.

Your panniers will sit nice and low on the Grand Tour as it uses dedicated rails, keeping your center of gravity in check.

Like all Tubus racks, if you experience a failure within the first three years of use, Tubus will ship you replacement parts anywhere in the world. This is unbeatable peace of mind for a bike traveler!

We would award this rack the best overall, but the Logo Classic simply offers better value for money.

	Tubus Grand Tour Black
	See Price
	See Price

Ibera RA5 Rack

Best Budget Rack

Price: $50 ($)

Weight Capacity: 55lbs / 25kg

Rack Weight: 1.68lbs / 760g

Tire Clearance: 29 x 2.6″

The Ibera might be a budget-friendly pick, but it doesn’t miss out on any features.

It’s height adjustable and has lower pannier rails to can keep the center of gravity of your panniers nice and low. The pannier rails are also set further back, which means it will offer excellent heel clearance.

In addition, this rack has clearance for seat stay disc brake calipers and has pins on the rack so that your panniers won’t slide on the rails.

The Ibera RA5 is not a rack for long-term heavy-duty use though – it’s built to a price. If you are planning a long trip, the extra money spent on a more durable rack will be well worth it.

It’s important to keep in mind that there’s a plethora of budget bike racks out there for even cheaper, but inexpensive racks very rarely last the distance. The Ibera is the cheapest model we are comfortable recommending.

	Ibera RA5
	See Price

Rear Bike Rack Buying Advice

Rack Material

Steel – Most of the racks on this list are made of steel. Steel provides a great nexus between durability, load capacity, and weight – all at a reasonable price point.

Aluminum – This material is a hit-and-miss for racks. The best aluminum racks are very stiff, very durable, and will last a lifetime. However, far too many rack brands use aluminum that is too soft (or they forgo durable surface treatments), resulting in failures and giving the material a bad name. Needless to say, we have picked out durable aluminum models only.

Carbon Fiber or Titanium – If you want a particularly lightweight setup or have an eye on aesthetics, titanium or carbon fiber racks could fit the bill. Even though they are made from lightweight materials, the racks on this list won’t sacrifice durability one bit. That said, you will be paying for this pleasure.

Attachment Style

Threaded Frame Mounts – Threaded frame eyelets are the most common way to fit a rear rack. In the past, these mounts were the only way to attach a rear rack – now, there are many other solutions.

Axle Mounts – Not all bikes have lower frame mounts. Mounting a rack directly to the axle is a great way to maximize the weight capacity of a rear rack as it allows for a very stiff structure. The Tailfin and Old Man Mountain racks are great examples of axle mounts done right, and Tubus racks can be attached via the axle using a special mounting kit.

Seat Post Mounts – Some racks employ special quick-release clamps that will lock on the seat post. This allows for the easy attachment and removal of a rack – the Ortlieb and Tailfin racks are prime examples. It’s worth noting you can also mount most racks to your seat collar – Salsa makes some nice collars with built-in eyelets.

Seat Stay Mounts – These upper mounts connect directly to the seat stays of the frame, and will work on full-suspension bikes.

Weight Capacity

Sticking to the weight limit set by the manufacturer will ensure your rack lasts a lifetime. If you do exceed this limit, it’s much more likely your rack will bend and break, especially on rough roads.

Even if you don’t plan to exceed the manufacturer’s limits, higher-weight capacity racks are significantly stiffer (with less side-to-side sway) and will be more reliable in the long term.

Tire Clearance

You will need to make sure your rack can comfortably fit your tire width. This is especially important if you’re riding off-road, as mud, grit, and rocks can jam in between the rack and tire.

We have listed the maximum tire widths for all racks here to make sure this doesn’t happen.

Rack Height

A shorter rack height helps keep your pannier’s center of gravity low, so your bike is easier to handle over rough and varying surfaces. Some racks like the Tubus Logo feature extra low rails for your panniers, which helps reduce the bag’s center of gravity even further.

Rack Pannier Support Area

The ‘pannier support area’ is the surface that the pannier sits on. With a larger rack surface area for your panniers to rest on, they will be extra supported, twisting less and putting less stress on your pannier hooks.

Please note that the pannier support area can be quite small on some of the more minimal racks (eg. Tumbleweed). It’s best to use smaller panniers on racks with this characteristic.

Upper Rack Mounting Struts

If you use a smaller bike frame, you may need to find longer upper struts for your rack. We have made sure to select racks with extra long struts available.

They’re available in 240mm, and 350mm lengths from Tubus. Surly has aftermarket upper struts that are 300mm in length. Ibera sells 280mm struts, and Tumbleweed includes 300mm upper mounting struts with their racks.

Rack Heel Clearance

If the chain stays on your bike are on the shorter side (440 mm or shorter), or you have particularly large feet, you may need a rack designed for extra heel clearance.

We have many racks listed here that shift your panniers further rearward (eg. Tubus Logo or Tailfin), and we also have a separate article on ten racks that provide additional heel clearance HERE.

Disc Brakes

If your bike uses a rear disc brake on the top of the seat stay, you will need to determine if a rack is capable of clearing the caliper. We’ve tried to pick only disc brake-suitable racks, but sometimes you’ll need to use a foot extension set like this one from Tubus.

It’s worth noting that any of the axle-mounted racks will clear brake calipers just fine.

Full Suspension Bikes

Fitting a rack to a full-suspension bike is tricky because the rack needs to move up and down with the rear wheel.

Tailfin racks have a unique pivot design that allows the rack to move with the suspension but still connect to the main frame via the seat post.

A rack on a full suspension bike can alternatively attach to the seat stays and rear axle. The Old Man Mountain rack is designed to be mounted in this manner, so it won’t interfere with your rear wheel’s movement.

The post The 10 Best Rear Racks for Bicycle Touring and Bikepacking appeared first on CYCLINGABOUT.

As a result, they transmit more shock and vibration to a rider than a typical mountain bike, resulting in more fatigue and discomfort.

This doesn’t have to be the case, however.

Innovative companies like Redshift offer suspension stems and seatposts that can be fitted to any bike and can isolate a rider from bumps, potholes, and rough surfaces.

I’ve been using the Redshift ShockStop Standard suspension seatpost for three years now. It looks neat, it has been reliable, and most importantly, it has suited my needs well. My previous vibration tests have shown that the ShockStop Standard provides a significant comfort improvement.

The Redshift ShockStop Pro V2 is the latest suspension seatpost on the market. While most suspension seatposts make use of coil springs or elastomer springs, the Pro utilises both spring types.

So, how does this combination of springs perform in my vibration tests? Let’s find out.

What is the Redshift ShockStop Pro Seatpost?

The ShockStop Pro is ideal for riders looking for a seatpost that’s both incredibly comfortable and largely unobtrusive.

US $299 (RRP)

VIEW AT AMAZON

The ShockStop Pro seatpost is the newest addition to the Redshift’s extensive component range. It’s marketed to those who ride and race gravel bikes and people who might be concerned with the additional weight a suspension seatpost brings.

Weighing in at as little as 380 grams, the ShockStop Pro is just 150 grams heavier than a typical aluminium seatpost. But for this extra weight, you gain 20mm of buttery suspension travel.

The ShockStop Pro is expensive at US $299 but it’s not unreasonably priced given the quality of materials used, and the additional comfort it offers (we’ll get to my vibration test results soon).

This suspension seatpost is available in two lengths (280 or 350 mm) and one diameter (27.2mm). If you use a larger diameter seat tube (eg. 31.8mm) you can easily buy the appropriate shim for a perfect fit.

You can use the ShockStop Pro with round 7mm or oval 7×9 mm rails, and the seatpost is suitable for those <50kg/110lb right through to 110kg/242lb.

Redshift is so confident that you’ll like their seatposts that they come with a 90-day guarantee. This allows for a 100% risk-free trial, and if you don’t like it, you can get a full product refund, no questions asked. There’s a lifetime warranty on the seatpost too.

How is the new ShockStop Pro different from the ShockStop Standard?

How Does The Pro Compare To The Standard?

Spring Type

The ShockStop Standard is suspended using only metal coil springs, which results in an ultra-responsive seatpost with excellent bump-eating comfort. According to my vibration tests, fast-moving coil springs tend to yield the most comfort over the small, high-frequency bumps found on gravel roads.

You can modify the spring stiffness by using either one or two coil springs – the spring rate is selected based on your body weight, riding style, and terrain.

The main downside to seatposts that use coil springs (without any source of damping) is that they can bounce up and down a bit as you pedal.

The ShockStop Pro, on the other hand, combines one (or two) coil springs with an elastomer spring that all nest together. The coil springs allow the seatpost to be responsive to bumps, while the elastomer spring calms the suspension movement with its additional material damping.

As a result, the ShockStop Pro seatpost not only has a great feel but it’s both less bouncy and less intrusive while you ride.

If you like, you can also remove the coil spring and install two elastomers instead. This reduces the bounciness almost entirely, however, it’s at the cost of the seatpost’s responsiveness to bumps. This could be the optimal solution for those who primarily ride on smooth roads.

Suspension Travel

The ShockStop Standard employs 35mm of suspension travel, which provides excellent comfort on notably rough terrain – think singletrack, 4×4 trails, and bumpy dirt roads.

The ShockStop Pro uses just 20mm of suspension travel. This essentially means it cannot absorb bumps as large, making it better suited to smooth-to-moderate gravel roads.

Product Weight

The ShockStop Standard seatpost is between 127 and 287 grams heavier than the ShockStop Pro. The weight difference between models depends on the seatpost lengths, diameters, and spring configurations.

Adjustability

The beauty of the ShockStop Standard is that you can fine-tune the suspension movement.

After you’ve fitted the appropriate coil spring(s), it’s time to adjust the pre-load. This plug adjusts both the spring stiffness and the initial firmness of the seatpost – it’s quite an effective way to fine-tune the seatpost to your desired feel.

In comparison, the ShockStop Pro has no way to fine-tune the initial firmness, you can only use different combinations of springs. This could result in some riders being unable to find the perfect spring stiffness for their needs.

Finish, Materials, and Sizes

The ShockStop Pro has blacked-out graphics, making it look more pro. It’s made from the same 6061 T6 aluminium as the Standard, however, it additionally features hollowed-out pivot pins, and more aggressively machined linkage arms to shed some grams off.

The ShockStop Standard seatpost can be purchased in 27.2, 30.4, 30.9, and 31.6mm diameters, and the largest diameter seatposts are available in lengths up to 450mm.

In comparison, the StockStop Pro is 27.2mm only in 280 or 350mm lengths (you will need to use shims for larger diameter seat tubes).

How Do You Set Up The Spring Rate?

To set up the seatpost, you will need to play around with the two elastomer springs and two coil springs (inner and outer) that it comes with.

I started off riding the seatpost with the recommended stiff elastomer (red) and both coil springs (87kg/192lb weight). But this was too firm. I next tried the soft elastomer (green) and both coil springs. The result this time was a seatpost that was too soft and bouncy.

The final step was re-installing the stiff elastomer (red) but removing the inner coil spring. This now felt subjectively on par with my ShockStop Standard seatpost.

How Does the Redshift ShockStop Pro Ride?

The first thing you will notice with either Redshift suspension seatpost is that you can forget your old way of riding; you no longer need to ‘unweight’ your saddle when you ride over bumps – you can just pedal straight over them.

Of course, the bigger bumps required me to unweight my saddle a bit more than usual due to the ShockStop Pro’s reduced suspension travel.

I’ve noticed that after a big hit, the ShockStop Pro firms up quickly, especially when you’re deeper in the travel. In comparison, the ShockStop Standard feels more plush. This is likely a result of the reduction in suspension travel (20mm vs. 35mm) but could be due to the properties of the elastomer spring too.

The overall feel of the seatpost with an elastomer spring is an improvement over the ShockStop Standard; the Pro has a more refined movement. But it’s not night and day, both seatposts feel very responsive to inputs from the ground.

Let’s now see how both seatposts performed in my vibration tests.

My Test Bike and Vibration Measurement Procedure

I conducted this Redshift seatpost comparison using my Open WI.DE gravel bike fitted with Rene Herse Umtanum Ridge 650B x 55 mm tires at 35 psi (2.5 bar).

You can read more about my benchmark bike HERE.

I have two test scenarios: a big hit test that simulates riding across a 30mm tall obstacle like a tree root or edgy rock, and a high-frequency chatter test that simulates riding on a bumpy gravel road.

You can read more about my vibration measurement procedure HERE.

Vibration Test Results

Big Hit Test

In the big hit test, the ShockStop Pro seatpost performed significantly better than the Standard, showing almost 60% less vibration at the saddle (on average).

The Pro seatpost was destined to do well in this test as the coil spring could respond quickly to the impact, and the elastomer spring could remove the unwanted oscillations after the big hit.

While the numbers suggest a huge win for the Pro seatpost, I didn’t perceive a big difference in ride comfort. The most noticeable difference ‘at the butt’ was the reduced bounciness.

High-Frequency Chatter Test

The ShockStop Pro seatpost performed better in the high-frequency chatter test too, however, this time there was 14% less vibration compared to the ShockStop Standard (on average).

Again, the elastomer spring’s material damping proved advantageous over fast, repetitive bumps – it was able to reduce the overall vibration at the saddle, although at a reduced rate.

Ultimately, both Redshift seatposts do very well in this test thanks to their ultra-responsive coil springs. The most noticeable difference is that the Pro feels more refined in its movement, however, this is only a minor comfort difference.

Summary

There is no doubt that the Redshift ShockStop Pro seatpost takes ride comfort up a notch with its clever use of coil and elastomer springs. It’s the most comfortable seatpost I’ve ever tested with my vibration-measuring equipment.

The coil spring responds quickly to bumps, and the elastomer spring keeps the ‘bounciness’ in check by removing unwanted vibrations from the system. And with a weight between 380 to 445 grams, it won’t add any considerable weight to your bike.

The ShockStop Pro is ideal for more performance-oriented riders looking for a seatpost that’s comfortable and unobtrusive. The 20mm of suspension travel is perfect for most gravel surfaces, and it performs well on smoother paved roads and bike paths too.

However, the ShockStop Pro is not perfect. Given there is no pre-load adjustment, I would prefer if it came with additional spring rates so you could better optimise it around your body weight, riding style, and terrain.

In any case, the Redshift ShockStop Pro did very well in my vibration test and will be the benchmark seatpost for my future tests.

Is The ShockStop Standard Better For You?

The ShockStop Standard is cheaper and more adjustable than the Pro. It also has more travel, which suits rougher terrain.

US $229 (RRP)

VIEW AT AMAZON

The ShockStop Standard is still one of the highest-performing seatposts I’ve ever tested. With its longer travel, responsive movement, and additional adjustability, it allows you to remain comfortable on rougher terrain than the Pro.

It performs exceptionally on singletrack, 4×4 trails, and chunky gravel roads. It’s also excellent for smoother gravel roads, provided you run it with a bit more pre-load.

Given it’s US $70 cheaper than the Pro, this gives it the best comfort-to-price ratio too.

Alternative purchase links for the Redshift ShockStop Standard Seatpost

	Dealer	Current Price
	Angry Catfish Bicycle	See Price
	Aventuron	See Price
	Backcountry	See Price
	Competitive Cyclist	See Price
	REI	See Price

Note: We may earn a commission when you purchase a seatpost through our links. This directly supports CyclingAbout and allows us to continue to provide high-quality cycling information to you.

The post Redshift ShockStop Pro Suspension Seatpost Review: Vibration Killer! appeared first on CYCLINGABOUT.

Like other planetary gear hubs, the Kindernay promised a long-lasting drivetrain with less maintenance, zero gear adjustment, instant shifts, and components that are less susceptible to wear and damage.

The Kindernay 7 and 14-speed hubs had a few defining features:

• The gearboxes could be separated from the hub shell and you could move them between multiple wheelsets
• They used hydraulic trigger shifters
• They were designed specifically for 12mm thru-axles
• They were lighter than the competition (and only 400 grams heavier than a Shimano Deore derailleur setup!).
• They had a higher torque rating than other internal gear hubs
• They had a wider gear range than other internal gear hubs
  

Unfortunately, I’ve just heard some bad news from Kindernay…

The Kindernay Bankruptcy

The company behind Kindernay, CA Technology Systems, recently filed for bankruptcy according to an article on Shifter.no.

The trustee of the company is currently considering selling the assets and rights to the gear hubs. A date for a possible auction has not yet been set.

At this stage, aftersales support for existing Kindernay users is unknown. Hopefully, a large array of spare parts will be made available to a bicycle shop or distributor.

The Kindernay Void

It’s always sad to see a high-quality, niche cycling product disappear from the market. While not perfect, the Kindernay hubs had some appealing advantages over the competition.

Unlike most other internal gear hubs, these hubs were designed for mountain biking. The 7-speed hub added very little weight to a bike compared to a 1X drivetrain (300 grams extra unsprung mass), and the hydraulic trigger shifter was a welcome alternative to the grip shifters found with most internal gear hubs.

A defining feature was the Kindernay system’s modularity. This meant you could own one expensive gearbox that could be transferred between wheels. For example, you could leave the gearbox in your mountain bike year-round, but swap it into your fat bike in winter, or touring bike when you set out for your annual adventure.

These unique features will be missed.

What Are The Kindernay Hub Alternatives?

The closest internal gear hub currently is the Rohloff Speedhub. It has the same number of gears (14), a similar gear range (526% vs 543%), and almost identical gear steps (13.6% vs 13.9%).

After 25+ years of production, Rohloff hubs have an excellent track record for reliability and longevity. One owner has even cycled over 470,000km on one! These hubs have also been tested to have low frictional losses, which means the maximum amount of your pedal power will go toward driving you forward.

There are some other new internal gear hubs worth mentioning too.

The 3X3 Nine is a 9-speed hub that’s made in Germany and offers a choice between an electronic shifter and a regular grip shifter.

This hub has a bigger gear range (554%) and fewer gears than a Kindernay. This results in rather large gear steps of 23.8%, almost twice that of the Kindernay or Rohloff hubs.

Large gear steps like this are indicative that 3×3 is targetting the electric bike market. As e-bikes accelerate faster, it’s not uncommon to find yourself changing two or three gears at once on a typical drivetrain. Larger gear steps ultimately mean less shifting is required on eBikes, however, it also makes the hub less suitable for standard bikes as you might find yourself ‘in between gears’ more frequently.

Another indication that the hub is designed around eBikes is that it will handle 250Nm of input torque from a mid-drive motor. This is significantly more than both Kindernay (160Nm) and Rohloff (130Nm).

Interestingly, the 3×3 hub is lubricated with grease instead of oil. This lubrication choice has allowed 3×3 to reduce the hub maintenance. The grease change interval is a lengthy 25,000km, a figure five times further than the oil-change interval of a Rohloff hub (5000km).

Another fascinating German-made gear hub that’s available for pre-order is the Revolute Hub1.

This six-speed hub has been primarily designed around eBike use, so it too can handle 250Nm input torque. This hub has a narrower gear range (400%) than most gearboxes, and larger gear steps too (30%+).

An interesting feature of the Revolute hub is that it doesn’t spin backward! This means that when you stop on a hill, you do not need to pull your brakes to prevent the bike from rolling backward. This will be especially handy with heavily laden cargo bikes but could be nice on a regular bike too.

Lastly, don’t overlook the Shimano Alfine hubs.

These are notably quiet in operation, well-priced, and generally reliable. I really like the electronic shifting versions, which help to boost the reliability of the hub, and you can pair these hubs with the excellent Shimano Di2 drop bar shifters on a gravel or commuter bike.

Summary

The modular design of the Kindernay was nifty, the hubs were lightweight, and the hydraulic trigger shifter was a neat alternative to the usual grip shifter.

It’s sad to see Kindernay file for bankruptcy. I hope a sale of the assets and rights to the hub comes to fruition, and that the hubs can live on through another company.

Luckily for consumers, there are still a handful of other high-quality internal gear hubs available. For alternatives similar to Kindernay, I’d recommend looking into Rohloff, 3X3, Revolute, and Shimano Alfine hubs.

The post The Kindernay 14-Speed Gear Hub is No Longer (They Went Bankrupt) appeared first on CYCLINGABOUT.

But technology has come a very long way since the 1800s, especially when it comes to textiles – so, perhaps a rope, or “String Drive” bike is the ultimate solution?

In this article, I’ll introduce you to a very special chainless drivetrain that uses Dyneema ropes to propel you forward. These bikes were produced from 2011 to 2021 and used similar ropes to those found in fancy bicycle spokes, paragliding lines, sailing ropes, and even human-powered helicopters.

Here are some quick facts about String Drive to whet your palate: it’s completely grease and oil-free, it has 19 non-overlapping gears, you can change the gears while stationary, and the gears don’t ever require adjustment.

To prove that String Drive is no gimmick, Ferenc Szonyi (an ultra-endurance cyclist) used this drivetrain in the insane Race Across America, a non-stop 4,800 km cycling event (3000 mi). In just 11 days and 10 hours, the athlete on the String Bike completed the route. That’s a crazy 422 km (or 262 mi) per day!

Of course, there are downsides to a rope drivetrain too. So, let’s dive deep into the technology and determine if we will see ropes on bicycles again.

How Do String Drive Bicycles Work?

I know it looks crazy and complicated, but it’s actually rather simple in operation.

You pedal in a circular motion just like normal, however, instead of rotating a chainring, the crank arms move two levers that pull on ropes attached to either side of your rear wheel. The levers take it in turns to pull your wheel forward, with the ropes winding and unwinding neatly on the rear drums.

Incredibly, Dyneema ropes have a higher strength under tension than a bicycle chain.

A 3.5mm rope can handle over 16,700N of force, which is twice the industrial standard for bicycle chains (8000N). To put this into context, the best Tour de France sprinters don’t even hit a quarter of the tensile strength of these ropes. That’s pretty impressive considering these ropes float in water!

The gear ratios are changed by moving the front pulley up and down recesses in the lever arms. There are 19 gear options, where the highest gear is about three times larger than the smallest (304% range). This is equal to a traditional road bike drivetrain (53-39tT + 11-25T), or Shimano Alfine 8-speed internal gear hub.

You can choose between three rear drum sizes that can either give you lower gears for the hills, or higher gears for the flat.

The ropes typically last 1000 to 2000 kilometres, and as they don’t absorb water, they can be used in wet conditions and even snow. That said, grit significantly affects longevity, so while it can handle extreme conditions, it performs best when the conditions are good.

Let’s talk about advantages.

The Advantages of String Drive Bicycles

To start, this drivetrain runs smoothly and silently without any grease or oil. This virtually eliminates drivetrain maintenance, and means that you’ll never get grease on your hands or pants ever again.

Once set up, String Drive doesn’t require any gear adjustment, and the gears won’t ever skip when you change them. In fact, you can change gears any time with this drivetrain: that’s while stationary, while coasting down a hill, and even under a full pedal load.

There is also no rear derailleur to damage or bend out of whack, and while the lever arms are large and exposed, they sit high and out of harm’s way.

Interestingly, the advantages we’ve discussed so far are all shared with an internal gear system paired with a belt. Let’s now discuss the advantages exclusive to String Drive.

Firstly, the pedals automatically rest at the most favourable starting position, so you can just get on your bike and ride.

While most drivetrains wear out the front and rear sprockets, as well as the chain or belt, the only regular consumable on String Drive is the ropes, which are about $10 each. The spare ropes can be easily stored inside your seatpost, and anyone can change them in about five minutes without removing the rear wheel.

String Drive is also designed to minimise the ‘crank dead spot’. It does this by decreasing the gear ratio at the top and bottom of the pedal stroke, and increasing it when you can exert the most force. This provides torque to the rear wheel over a longer duration, which is said to be more efficient – it has the same effect as using an oval chainring on a chain drive bike.

When you remove the rear wheel, the entire drivetrain stays with the frame. This makes for easy wheel removal and it’s great for transport too – you can put the dirty wheels into bags, and the bike travels cleanly. The bike will also stand up by itself without its rear wheel fitted.

When these bikes were available, the price was quite reasonable. City bikes were just over €1000 (~US $1100), which was excellent considering that the frame and many of the high-quality components were manufactured in Europe.

The last advantage is that the gears are spaced very close together, which allows you to almost always find the perfect gear ratio. This is not dissimilar to the Enviolo hub we recently analysed. To illustrate just how close these gear ratios are, each step on an 11-21t cassette (1-tooth difference between each gear) is still 50% larger than what String Drive offers (7.5% vs 5%).

String Drive has shown some significant advantages, so what are the downsides?

The Disadvantages of String Drive Bicycles

One reason why String Drive never took off is that the drivetrain cannot be installed on any bike. Instead, a specially designed frame must be used – one with the right guides and attachments, and with notably wide dropouts to fit the two rear drums.

Not only did the frame need to be special, but almost all components and spare parts were exclusive to StringBike, making them hard to obtain.

The design of the drivetrain itself also made it a hard sell. This is because the left side drum occupied the same location as a disc brake rotor, which meant the drivetrain was only compatible with rim brakes. While rim brakes offer acceptable performance, disc brakes have become the industry standard – limiting the versatility of this drivetrain.

Modern drivetrains are ideally eBike compatible too. Unfortunately, there was no easy way to make a String Drive electric bike as the components occupied the same space as mid-drive and rear hub motors.

The Dyneema ropes also wore out quickly compared to other drive options. The best chains offer top-level performance for between 4000 and 7000km, while modern belts can last upwards of 30,000km (both with contamination). In comparison, Dyneema ropes only lasted 1000 or 2000km.

A grip shifter needed to be used to change gears on a String Bike. Some users found these shifters stiff to rotate, especially when they were wet. Grip shifters don’t integrate very neatly on drop bar bikes compared to modern brake/shift levers either.

As you need lever arms, ropes, and drums on both sides of the bike, there was a weight penalty of approximately one kilogram (2.2lbs) compared to a derailleur bicycle.

A String Drive bike was also likely less efficient than a chain drive bike. Converting from rotary motion to reciprocating motion, and then back to rotary motion is never particularly efficient, and additionally, this drivetrain has many sliding surfaces that generate friction.

That said, the drive efficiency might just be superior to a gearbox or internal gear hub. The fact that four amateur cyclists could average 33km/h for 24 hours on String Bikes (Hungaroring 24H race), or that an endurance cyclist could cover over 420km per day (in the RAAM) suggests that drivetrain losses are not unreasonable.

The String Drive gear range was also small by modern standards (304%). It worked fine for most urban environments, but it became a bit limited if you wanted to climb both steep hills and have the gears for high-speed cruising too. For context, most road bike drivetrains now offer a 450% gear range and off-road drivetrains regularly exceed 500%.

Why Didn’t String Drive Take Off?

With the pros and cons laid out, you should have an idea about why String Drive didn’t take off.

Ultimately, the proprietary frame and components made it a really difficult sell, as did the clunky grip shifter, additional weight, lower drive efficiency, and short wear life of the ropes.

Furthermore, String Drive didn’t come out at a great time. It was developed just as disc brakes were becoming standard on bicycles, right when electric bikes were turning into the largest area of growth in the bike industry, and just as belt drive and internal gear systems had finally become a suitable alternative to chains and derailleurs.

Let’s finish this article with some of String Drive’s interesting quirks.

Other Interesting String Bike Quirks

Firstly, you can pedal backward and the bike will move forward! This is because the levers will always pull the ropes, no matter the direction your pedals are moving.

You also have the opportunity to set different gear ratios for each crank arm by using different-sized rear drums. This could be useful for those with a leg injury, or for training up a leg with a muscular weakness.

The reduction in ‘crank dead spot’ is another fascinating quirk. As I previously mentioned, String Drive was designed to decrease the gear ratio at the top and bottom of the pedal stroke and increase it when you can exert the most force.

While this sounds like a genius idea, it’s actually inconclusive whether there is a biomechanical advantage to using an elliptical driving path. According to carefully controlled biomechanical studies, your ankle movement changes when you ride with non-circular chainrings, and this change in movement effectively cancels out any possible additional power generated at your knees and hips.

That said, some people prefer the ‘feel’ of non-circular chainrings, and others say that they notice less strain on their knees, so I think reducing the crank dead spot is still an idea worth pursuing.

Summary

I honestly thought String Drive was a bit silly when I began investigating it. But after analysing every aspect of its design, I’m actually really impressed. The entire drivetrain is well thought out, and I had no idea that Dyneema rope tensile strength was so high.

The ropes are clean, maintenance-free, cheap, and easy to replace. I can certainly see how the designers imagined their bicycle drivetrain revolution, but unfortunately, they did not anticipate just how important disc brakes, electric motors, gearboxes, and belts would be in the decades to come.

The post Are Chainless String Drive Bicycles a Genius or Terrible Idea? appeared first on CYCLINGABOUT.

I personally use a Cinq Plug6 Plus to charge my iPhone, Bluetooth earphones, Bluetooth speaker, eReader, headlamp, GoPro, Garmin Inreach, and a power bank.

This article was originally published in March 2012 but has been updated in Nov 2023.

If you’re bikepacking off-road or spending lots of time on steep mountain roads, you may want to skip on dynamo chargers and instead use a power bank or solar charger. Dynamo chargers are essentially useless at charging power-hungry devices (eg. smartphones) unless you average 12 to 15kph for the majority of your ride (7.5 to 9mph).

That said, hub dynamos can charge power-efficient devices at as little as 5kph/3mph – this includes GPS trackers, GPS navigation devices, or small battery packs. This is one reason why hub dynamos are popular even for off-road ultra events.

If you’re cycling on terrain that has you cycling above and below 12kph, make sure to add a buffer battery into your charging system, which will supply power to your device when the dynamo can not. For example, when climbing at low speeds or when stopped at traffic lights.

The above is a very brief introduction – if you want to learn it all, it could be worth digging into my full series:
Dynamo Hubs
Dynamo Lights
Dynamo USB Chargers
Dynamo Wiring
Buffer Batteries
Rim Dynamos

Key Stats For Benchmarking Hub Dynamo USB Chargers

To help you compare the hub dynamo USB chargers in this resource, I have listed their key specs and have organised them according to type (“integrated”, “inline” and “light” chargers). Within these categories, you’ll also find them ranked in terms of available output power when cycling at 20kph.

Speed at 2.5W – This is the speed you need to ride in order to achieve the minimum charge for many smartphones.
Power at 20KPH – This is the maximum output power at the USB port at 20KPH.
Power Output Graph – The power output graph for the charger if available.
Buffer Battery – If a buffer battery is integrated into the charging system, I have listed the battery’s capacity here.
Price – Retail price on the hub dynamo USB charger.

Integrated Hub Dynamo USB Chargers

Forumslader V6 Ahead

The Forumslader V6 is one of the more powerful dynamo USB chargers above 20KPH. While we don’t have any data on the latest model, the Forumslader V5 was able to hit 2.5 watts at 13KPH and almost 5 watts at 20KPH. A cool thing about the Forumslader products is that they’re constantly getting updated with the latest tech and circuitry due to their small-scale production. If you’d like more protection of the USB port, an aftermarket dust and water protection cap is available HERE.

Speed at 2.5W: 13KPH (V5)
Power at 20KPH: 4.8-watts (V5)
Power Output Graph: HERE (V5)
Buffer Battery: 7500mAh
Price: €227

Cinq Plug6 Plus

The Cinq Plug6 Plus is my dynamo hub USB charger of choice. It’s super neat and offers more power than anything else below 18KPH. There’s an 1100mAh battery hidden in the steerer tube that steps in when your speed drops below 12KPH. Simultaneous operation of lighting and charging is possible, although it will only really maintain your smartphone battery – rather than fill it. The Plug has recently been redesigned to be significantly more waterproof than previous models (mine Plug6 has worked flawlessly for 18 months so far). You can hide the USB-C plug quickly by rotating the ratcheting top cap door, and a waterproof cap can additionally be used in extreme conditions. If you’re after a rare USB-C-to-iPhone cable in a short length, check out this one on Amazon.

Speed at 2.5W: 12KPH
Power at 20KPH: 4.6-watts
Power Output Graph: HERE
Buffer Battery: 1100mAh
Price: €259

Cycle2Charge V3+

This headset top cap option from Cycle2Charge is available at an exceptional price. It produces the minimum charge for a smartphone at 15KPH (2.5W), but it’s between 20 to 25KPH where it provides the bulk of its power. Like the Plug6, this charger uses a rotating dome to protect the USB plug when not in use.

Speed at 2.5W: 15KPH
Power at 20KPH: 4.3-watts
Power Output Graph: HERE
Buffer Battery: No
Price: €80

Sinewave Reactor

The Sinewave Reactor offers notably good reliability and moderate performance. The electronics are neatly integrated into the fork steerer, making it somewhat theft-proof and elegant. It’s manufactured in the USA and gets rave reviews from many users.

Speed at 2.5W: 17.5KPH
Power at 20KPH: 3-watts
Power Output Graph: HERE
Buffer Battery: No
Price: US $220

Cinq Plug5 Pure

The Cinq Plug5 Pure is a lower-cost version of the Plug6 Plus that’s sold without the buffer battery. The charger is not particularly powerful: the maximum output is just 3.1 watts, which is really only suitable for low-draw devices such as a Garmin GPS or Spot Tracker.

Speed at 2.5W: 14KPH
Power at 20KPH: 3.1-watts
Power Output Graph: HERE
Buffer Battery: No, but it is designed to be used seamlessly with the Smart Power Pack
Price: €159

In-line Hub Dynamo USB Chargers

Lumi-Con Bike Harvester PM

The Lumi-Con PM offers amazing specs for the price. It integrates up to 3500mAh worth of batteries that can kick in when you drop to low speeds, or store any excess power for when you’ve finished your ride.

Speed at 2.5W: 15KPH (non-independent testing)
Power at 20KPH: 5.5-watts (non-independent testing)
Power Output Graph: HERE (non-independent testing)
Buffer Battery: 3500mAh
Price: €161

Forumslader Pro V6

The Forumslader V6 is available in a larger unit that will sit inside a handlebar bag for a lower price.

Speed at 2.5W: 13KPH (V5)
Power at 20KPH: 5.1-watts (V5)
Power Output Graph: HERE (V5)
Buffer Battery: 7500mAh
Price: €122

Igaro S1 Pro

The Igaro S1 Pro is a notably high-performing dynamo hub charger, especially at low speeds. It has dual USB-C ports, status indicators, and super-capacitors that add power to your device when you’re cycling at slower speeds. The S1 Pro is IP69 waterproof and mounts directly to your handlebar near the stem.

Speed at 2.5W: 12KPH (non-independent testing)
Power at 20KPH: 5-watts (non-independent testing)
Power Output Graph: Table HERE (non-independent testing)
Buffer Battery: Internal super-capacitors with four minutes of stationary power
Price: £260

Fahrradlader V3.1

The Fahrradlader V3.1 is a small open-hardware project by an electrical engineering student in Germany. The Fahrradlader V3.1 delivers big power at 20kph for very little money, plus it has four supercapacitors that keep the power flowing temporarily when you ride at low speeds. This model is not waterproof and appears to only be made in small numbers (you might need to get your name on a list).

Speed at 2.5W: 16.5KPH (non-independent testing)
Power at 20KPH: 5-watts (non-independent testing)
Power Output Graph: HERE (non-independent testing)
Buffer Battery: Four super-capacitors with stationary power
Price: €35

Igaro D2 Pro R3

The Igaro D2 Pro charger features dual USB-C ports, status indicators, and a metal casing. It’s compact, IP69 waterproof, and hand-assembled in the UK. The charger comes with a five-year warranty, and Igaro will ship warranty replacements anywhere in the world for free.

Speed at 2.5W: 14KPH (R2 model)
Power at 20KPH: 4.1-watts (R2 model)
Power Output Graph: HERE
Buffer Battery: No
Price: £160

Lumi-Con Bike Harvester P5

The Lumi-Con P5 offers excellent specs for the price. It integrates up to 7000mAh worth of batteries that can store any excess power for when you’ve finished your ride.

Speed at 2.5W: 14KPH
Power at 20KPH: 4-watts
Power Output Graph: HERE
Buffer Battery: 2x 3500mAh
Price: €159

Velotor SE2 Base

Speed at 2.5W: 16KPH
Power at 20KPH: 3.6-watts
Power Output Graph: HERE
Buffer Battery: No
Price: €197

kLite USB Charger

kLite makes some amazing light and dynamo systems for remote backcountry use. Their focus is specifically on reliability, so their systems are as simple as possible, using thick internal cabling, full waterproofing, and smoothing capacitors that offer ultra-consistent waveforms (best practice for direct charging; kLite says they take up half the charging unit). The kLite charger also offers solar charger input and 2x USB output ports (1x Spot Tracker or GPS + a smartphone or other power-hungry device).

Speed at 2.5W: 18KPH
Power at 20KPH: 2.8-watts
Power Output Graph: HERE
Buffer Battery: Available separately
Price: US $140

Sinewave Revolution

This small 38-gram waterproof charger can be connected directly to phones or power packs and is especially popular given it offers the same performance as the Reactor but with a lower price tag. It will achieve 2.5W at 17KPH, 3W at 20KPHH, and 4.5W at 30KPH. Like all Sinewave products, it’s made in the USA.

Speed at 2.5W: 17KPH
Power at 20KPH: 3-watts
Power Output Graph: HERE
Buffer Battery: No
Price: US $120

Busch and Muller E-Werk

The E-Werk is a unique unit as you can control the voltage (2.8 to 13.3V) and current (0.1 to 1.5A) to suit the charging specifications for each device you’d like to charge. While it’s a great idea, in theory, it really just makes the charger more complicated than necessary. The only time I can see this feature being useful is if you’re regularly travelling ultra-fast (40KPH+) or slow (<7KPH). In terms of performance, the E-Werk will hit smartphone levels of charging at 17.5KPH, and by 30KPH it will be producing over 4 watts.

Speed at 2.5W: 17.5KPH
Power at 20KPH: 2.8-watts
Power Output Graph: HERE
Buffer Battery: Available separately for $105
Price: €179

Busch and Muller USB-Werk

The USB Werk is the more recent release from Busch and Muller (it’s getting old now). It’s a stripped-back version of the E-Werk but with a tiny buffer battery built-in. It can achieve smartphone levels of charging (2.5 watts) somewhere between 14 and 19KPH (two different tests).

Speed at 2.5W: 14 to 19KPH
Power at 20KPH: 2.6 to 3.3-watts
Power Output Graph: HERE and HERE
Buffer Battery: 300mAh
Price: €110

USB2BYK

Speed at 2.5W: 20KPH (non-independent testing)
Power at 20KPH: 2.5-watts (non-independent testing)
Buffer Battery: No
Price: €39

Kemo M172N

The Kemo M172N is a dynamo USB charger with a built-in switch so that you can choose between sending power to your lights or your USB device. It’s an absolute bargain, and from all accounts, works really well if your average speed is above 25KPH.

Speed at 2.5W: 22KPH
Power at 20KPH: 2.3-watts
Power Output Graph: HERE
Buffer Battery: No
Price: £40

PowerBUG

Another cheap charger from Poland is the PowerBUG. While you need quite high speeds to access smartphone levels of power, it definitely won’t break the bank.

Speed at 2.5W: 25KPH
Power at 20KPH: 2.3-watts
Power Output Graph: HERE
Buffer Battery: No
Price: €38 (169 zł)

Ullmann Power Station 4

Speed at 2.5W: No data
Power at 20KPH: No data
Buffer Battery: No
Price: €130

VeloCharger MK2

Speed at 2.5W: No data
Power at 20KPH: No data
Buffer Battery: No
Price: £105

BioLogic ReeCharge Dynamo Kit

Speed at 2.5W: No data
Power at 20KPH: No data
Buffer Battery: No
Price: US $39

Hub Dynamo Lights with USB Chargers

Spanninga Nomad

The Spanninga Nomad is, by far, the cheapest light and USB charger combo. It has a small form factor, with the USB plug hidden on the side of the lamp. It offers a lower 40 lux light output than the competition (compared to the B&M 90 lux and AXA 70 lux) but offers more USB power at 20KPH.

Speed at 2.5W: 18KPH
Power at 20KH: 3.4-watts
Power Output Graph: HERE
Battery: No
Price: US $50

Sinewave Beacon 2

The Sinewave Beacon 2 is an LED light with 750 lumens output and an integrated switch for charging. The Beacon 2 uses the same internals as the Revolution and Reactor so you can expect a strong smartphone charge at 17KPH. A cool feature is that the light can be powered by the dynamo hub, an external USB battery pack, or both. A blinking mode is also available when external battery power.

Speed at 2.5W: 17KPH
Power at 20KPH: 3-watts
Power Output Graph: HERE
Battery: No
Price: US $350

B&M Lumotec IQ2 Luxos

Introduced to consumers at the 2012 Eurobike tradeshow, this 90lux dynamo light incorporates a handlebar switch and USB plug so that you can charge and ride. It’s a super neat and integrated design, however, comes with mixed reviews when it comes to its charging ability. Even so, this is a great dynamo light with a nice beam shape for on-road use.

Speed at 2.5W: No data
Power at 20KPH: No data
Battery: No
Price: US $260

AXA Luxx70 Plus

The AXA Luxx70 Plus is a similar product to the Lumotec IQ2 light, providing a handlebar switch to select between using the LED light or USB charger. The key advantage of this product is the exceptional price point. From all accounts, it works really well too.

Speed at 2.5W: No data
Power at 20KPH: No data
Battery: No
Price: US $150

Learn About Hub Dynamo USB Chargers HERE, Dynamo Wiring Systems HERE, Buffer Batteries HERE and Dynamo Lights HERE

The post List of Hub Dynamo USB Chargers That Power Your Electronics While You Ride appeared first on CYCLINGABOUT.

The efficiency of a clean and lubricated derailleur drivetrain is usually upwards of 97%. This simply means that 97% of the power that you put into the pedals is going into driving your rear wheel, and the remaining 3% is lost to friction.

The drive efficiency varies with the lubricant used, the quality of the drivetrain components, how worn the components are, the front and rear sprocket sizes, the chain angle, the chainring tooth shapes, the chain link shape, the rear derailleur’s one-way clutch design, the jockey wheel sizes, the power output and cadence of a rider… and more! A combination of these variables is why we see frictional differences between 1X drivetrains and 2X drivetrains.

The drive efficiency also varies significantly depending on the chain ‘dirtiness’ where the type of grit, amount of grit, and amount of lubricant left all play a role.

With all of these abovementioned variables, knowing exactly how much a ‘dirty chain’ slows you down is an impossible task. However, the following data should give us a good idea.

Note: the cover photo is by Tim Bardsley-Smith from when I biked the Mawson Trail.

How Do We Determine Drivetrain Efficiency

The drive efficiency data that we will be discussing was collected about a decade ago by Friction Facts, an independent test lab. I’ve previously analysed Friction Facts data in my articles that looked at the efficiency of belt drivetrains (the most recent belt data is found HERE) and 1X vs. 2X drivetrains.

All tests were conducted using a special test rig with a chain tension simulating 250 watts of power output. The cadence was set to 90 RPM. Each chain was run for five minutes, with data captured at the end of each five-minute run. When the chains were installed and removed from the test rig, they always faced the same direction.

The test rig is accurate within +/- 0.02 watts, and system losses from the four ceramic bearings in the equipment have been subtracted from the final results.

The Efficiency of A Dirty Bicycle Chain – Test #1

In this first test, a perfectly clean chain with a light oil-based lubricant ran at 97.6% drive efficiency.

The efficiency dropped by 2.8% after a test period in the rain*, and it was 3.2% less efficient with some wet mud contamination. Once the mud contamination had dried, the efficiency had dropped to 92.8%, which means that almost 5% more of your pedal power is now being lost to the dirty drivetrain.

*Unfortunately, details about the test period duration or conditions were not made available.

The Efficiency of A Dirty Bicycle Chain – Test #2

Friction Facts conducted a different test using six participants at a bicycle race in Boulder, USA. The chains were tested both before and after the one-hour cyclocross race to determine their drive efficiency after grit exposure.

Three participants were given Ceramic Speed UFO V1-treated chains, which are coated with a hot wax that dries onto the chain and provides lubrication. The other three participants used more common light oil-lubricated chains.

After the race, Friction Facts found the wax-treated chains lost an average of 0.7% drive efficiency, while the oil-treated chains lost an average of 1.7%. The likely reason for the difference here is that the wax lubricant simply collects less grit and even provides a barrier to stop it from entering the chain links.

The Efficiency of an Unlubricated Chain Drivetrain

The noise of a bicycle chain is usually a good indicator that additional friction is being experienced. After all, chain links are metal-on-metal so they need some form of lubrication to run smoothly.

What happens to the drive efficiency when you have no lubricant left on your chain? I’m glad you asked.

For this test, six different chains were perfectly cleaned and applied with a light oil-based lube. When they were put on the test rig, the drive efficiency exceeded 97% in all cases.

Next, the six chains were stripped back to bare metal with an ultrasonic cleaner. The drive efficiency was re-tested and was found to be as low as 89.6% and as high as 92%.

When we average out the decreases in efficiency we find that 6% of your pedal power is being lost when you don’t have any chain lubricant left. Even a dry muddy chain with a bit of lubricant works better than a chain without any lube!

Try to remember this next time you’re dealing with a squeaky chain…

How Much Does A Dirty Chain Slow You Down?

Using Bike Calculator, we can now simulate the speed differences between a perfectly clean and lubricated chain, and a chain of varying ‘dirtiness’. I will be using the Friction Facts data from the first test, and an average of the data from the unlubricated chain test.

Let’s assume our rider, bike, and equipment weigh a total of 85kg (187lb). The rider is on a gravel bike with their hands in the brake hoods.

Simulated Average Speed On Flat Gravel Terrain (250-Watts):

Clean and Lubed – 31.38km/h
Rainy and Lubed – 30.99km/h – 1.2% Slower
Wet, Muddy and Lubed – 30.94km/h – 1.4% Slower
Dry, Muddy and Lubed – 30.71km/h – 2.1% Slower
No Lubricant – 30.53km/h – 2.7% Slower

The differences in cycling speed are perhaps not as large as you’d think. This is because wind resistance and tyre rolling resistance are usually the two biggest forces that you work against on a bicycle.

Depending on the chain ‘dirtiness’, the reduction in cycling speed works out to be between 1.2% and 2.1%. And using a chain with no lubricant at all makes the bike almost 3% slower!

As the Friction Facts lab test was conducted at a power output that’s higher than that of the average cyclist, let’s run a simulation at a more suitable power output of 150 watts.

Drivetrain friction reduces linearly according to data shown in the belt drive test. This has allowed me to estimate a 31% reduction in friction for each chain condition when we drop from a power output of 250-watts to 150-watts.

Simulated Average Speed On Flat Gravel Terrain (150-Watts):

Clean and Lubed – 24.75km/h
Rainy and Lubed – 24.36km/h – 1.6% Slower
Wet, Muddy, and Lubed – 24.30km/h – 1.8% Slower
Dry, Muddy, and Lubed – 24.07km/h – 2.7% Slower
No Lube or Contamination – 23.88km/h – 3.5% Slower

The differences in speed are a bit larger with a lower power output. This is mostly due to the reduction in wind resistance. We now see a speed reduction of 1.6% to 2.7%, depending on the chain condition. And your speed could be 3.5% slower if you forget to lube your chain!

Summary

This data shows that a dirty bicycle chain can be anything from 92.8% to 96.8% efficient (depending on the contamination) and this can reduce one’s cycling speed by approximately 1% to 3%.

We see bigger differences in cycling speed when we test the aerodynamics of different luggage setups and the rolling resistance of different tyres.

That said, keeping your chain clean and lubricated is not a difficult task. When your drivetrain is running well, you will not only go faster, but your bike will be quieter, and you will experience less wear on your drive components – saving you money.

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If you are riding (or considering) a Pinion gearbox bike, your only shifter options for drop bar bikes have been the grip shifters provided by Pinion.

However, the ergonomics and performance of this shifter location are highly compromised. You need to move your right hand away from the brake hoods to complete all shifts, and you need a special handlebar to fit them.

In addition, the shifter can be slippery when wet and can be hard to twist if you have a bit of sweat, mud, or sun cream on your hand. The gearbox cables are also not hidden neatly under the bar tape as many would like.

The recent release of the new 2024 Pinion gearboxes (Smart Shift) ultimately allows for the best drop bar gearbox shifting possible. But this is not the perfect solution for everyone – there is a higher price, you have to keep the electronic shifter battery charged, and you cannot retrofit these electronic shifters to older Pinion gearboxes.

The New HILITE Hibox Shift Adapter

HILITE has found a mechanical solution that allows you to fit your favourite drop bar shifters to any Pinion C-Line gearbox bike.

By installing a new “shift adapter”, you change how the cables pull at the gearbox, matching the pull ratio of many standard drop bar shifters (with a minor internal modification). This allows existing Pinion C-Line gearbox users the option to upgrade their shifters, and I’m sure the product will be popular with bike builders too.

The shift adapter allows you to use Shimano GRX/105 shifters, SRAM Rival/Force/Red shifters, and various Campagnolo shifters too. The shifters can be paired with hydraulic brakes or mechanical brakes, depending on the model you choose.

In the future, you will also be able to pair SRAM and Shimano trigger shifters for mountain bikes too. But we’ll have to wait a bit longer for that upgrade kit.

How Well Does The Hibox Shift Adapter Work?

The Hibox shift adapter allows you to assign your right shifter for changing to higher gears, and your left shifter for changing to lower gears (or vice versa). This is typically how people set up the shifting of SRAM electronic groupsets.

The Hibox is not the fastest way to move through your gears – each press of the shift paddle is just one gear shift at the gearbox. If you would like something more responsive, you will want to look into the 2024 Pinion gearboxes with Smart Shift.

See a video of the Hibox shifters in action HERE.

The Shimano GRX brake hood ergonomics are some of the best around (in my opinion). The hood shape does a great job of distributing pressure over more of your hand, ensuring all-day comfort. The raised ribs on the hoods provide better grip in the rain when your gloves are wet and covered in grit. One-finger braking works out to be more effortless on the GRX shifters too.

How Much Does The Hibox Shift Adapter Cost?

The shift adapter is expensive due to the high-precision components and low production volumes. It comes in either a black or silver anodised finish and will start shipping in late October 2023.

Hibox Shift Adapter only – US $333 / 300CHF / €315
Shimano GRX RX600 + hydro brakes – US $1222 / 1100CHF / €1158
Shimano GRX RX800 + hydro brakes – US $1333 / 1200CHF / €1263
Shimano 105 + hydro brakes – $1244 / 1120CHF / €1179
SRAM Rival + mechanical brakes – US $733 / 660CHF / €695
SRAM Rival + hydro brakes – US $1144 / 1030CHF / €1084
SRAM Force + mechanical brakes – US $866 / 780CHF / €821
SRAM Force + hydro brakes – US $1255 / 1130CHF / €1190
SRAM Red + hydro brakes – US $1555 / 1400CHF / €1474

Complete HILITE Gravel Bikes

Alternatively, you can treat yourself to a complete HILITE gravel bike!

A complete titanium build with a 12-speed Pinion gearbox, Gates Carbon Drive, and Shimano GRX shifters starts at 8000CHF (US $8882).

As pictured, the bike tips the scales at 11.5kg/25lb. However, HILITE has some tricks up its sleeve to get their Pinion gravel bike under 10kg/22lb if you were to throw more money their way.

Get your hands on the Pinion Hibox shift adapter HERE.

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Pinion gearboxes are offered with 6 and 18 gears, are weather-sealed from the elements, are super quiet, are belt-drive compatible, and require very little maintenance – just an oil change every 10,000km (6200mi). They can potentially last a lifetime too; many users have already exceeded 100,000km (62,000mi).

The 2024 update addresses two key issues that have long prevented the widespread adoption of gearboxes: shifting under pedal load, and the need to use a grip shifter to change your gears.

In this article, we’ll look at the new shifter options and why they are a game-changer in this space. I’ll explain how these gearboxes shift under load, and we’ll discuss why this update tips the balance and is a derailleur killer for many riders.

The 2024 Pinion Gearboxes

The 2024 range might look identical to the Pinion C-line gearboxes but they have been redesigned to cope with stronger shifting forces, there is a new crankset design, there are integrated sensors, and the way the electronic shift cables feed into the gearbox is different too.

You can identify these new gearboxes by looking out for an “i” in the product name (eg. C1.12i), and importantly, they are not compatible with a grip shifter.

The Problem With Grip Shifters

Grip shifters have long been a sticking point for both existing gearbox users and potential new customers alike.

Some people simply don’t like grip shifter ergonomics, but more practically, they can be hard to rotate when they are wet or muddy, or when you have sweat or sun cream on your hands. They can also be a problem for those who have wrist conditions, wrist injuries, or as a result of hand fatigue from endurance cycling.

Additionally, there has never been a great way to mount grip shifters on drop bar bikes… until now.

You might have already seen the Pinion electronic trigger shifter, as it was released last year for e-bikes, and is also used with the new combined Pinion Motor Gearbox Unit.

However, the mountain bike trigger is now available for those who prefer to ride without battery assistance, and there are new drop bar shifters too. These shifters are wired to a tiny battery near the gearbox and complete gear changes in just 0.2 of a second. Like all gearboxes, you can shift gears whether you’re pedalling or not.

You might think electronic shifting is completely over the top, but it’s actually essential for shifting under pedal load. This is because the gearbox can now engage the next gear when your crankset is at the vertical position, which is when there is a natural slump in torque.

The shifts don’t feel quite as immediate as a derailleur, but they’re definitely faster than other gearboxes that require you to briefly let off pressure from the pedals. And a cool thing is that you can move from the lowest to the highest gear in about two seconds flat, which is surprisingly useful when a trail instantly pitches up.

The New Trigger Shifter

The trigger shifter has a very familiar shape, and its rubberised haptic button surfaces have an excellent grip and feel. As it’s electric, you can decide which button shifts up and which shifts down.

On a battery charge, the shifter will make approximately 20,000 shifts, which will likely last multiple months for most users. The battery is small and waterproof and can be mounted either inside or outside the frame. It’s fully charged in under three hours.

With pedal and wheel sensors, new semi-automatic shifting modes are also possible. For example, when coming to a complete stop, the gearbox can automatically shift to a start gear. Or when coasting, you can ask the gearbox to make automatic shifts based on your speed and pedal cadence. The gearbox will then have the perfect gear lined up for when you next need to pedal!

These gearboxes use a Bluetooth Low Energy (BLE) interface and can be connected to the Pinion Smart Shift app. This is where you can configure the shifting behaviour and button assignment, and see information about the charging status and firmware updates.

There is also an optional Sigma display that will show your gear indicator, charging status, cadence, and even turn-by-turn navigation via Komoot.

Currently, the only brands to announce using the new trigger shifter are Priority Bicycles, Viral Bikes, and VSF Fahrradmanufaktur.

The TRP Drop Bar Shifters

The trigger shifter is certainly welcome news, but the drop bar shifters might even be more exciting as they bring Pinion gearboxes to gravel bikes.

Drop bars allow you to ride in a more aerodynamic riding position that’s simply more efficient for covering distance. They also offer multiple handholds, they can be better for splitting traffic in cities, and some find the hand and wrist angles to be extra comfortable too.

Pairing drop bars and gearboxes is usually clunky at best. There are a handful of aftermarket shifters that are designed to do the job, however, the shifter throw is often long, and the shifts are usually just one shift per movement.

Yes, you can install Pinion grip shifters onto some drop bars, but then you don’t have easy access to the shifter while riding in the brake hoods. The cables sometimes even require extra maintenance as they incorporate additional springs and ratchets into the system.

The new TRP/Pinion electronic shifters have an excellent shape and pair with TRP hydraulic brakes too. Both the brake line and the cable to the Pinion Smart Shift Box run invisibly under the bar tape or inside your handlebars for a super neat look.

The only confirmed bike model with the drop bar shifter is the Pilot Scram.

What Are The Downsides of A Pinion Gearbox?

With the ability to shift under load, and the shifters now sorted, Pinion gearboxes will probably tip the balance over derailleurs and be the ultimate drivetrain for many cyclists. Imagine never adjusting your gears, destroying a derailleur, replacing a cassette, or even cleaning and lubing a chain.

So, what are the downsides?

Firstly, the Pinion gearbox price will remain high for the foreseeable future due to the product quality and overall production volumes. Expect around US $3000 or €3000 to be the starting price for a complete Pinion bike.

But it’s worth noting that the gearbox space is heating up and Korean start-up All-to is aiming to produce a competitor at a significantly lower price.

There is still a weight disadvantage of approximately 1.5kg compared to a derailleur drivetrain. However, keep in mind that bike weight matters much less than you think, and this is especially the case if you ride on flat terrain, if your body weight is on the heavy side, or if you’re already carrying lots of luggage, food, and water anyway. After all, a kilogram is often just 1 or 2% of your combined bike and body weight.

There’s also a case to be made in terms of performance for a heavier gearbox drivetrain on a full-suspension bike. When you remove the cassette and derailleur weight from the rear swingarm, the rear suspension will respond quicker to ground forces (less unsprung mass). This means better small bump sensitivity and even more grip.

A bigger concern for some is that gearboxes will never be as efficient as a clean and well-lubricated derailleur drivetrain. Some quick napkin maths suggests a derailleur bike will have you cycling between 0.4 and 0.8km/h faster* depending on the gradient, and with the same power output. But keep in mind that mud and grit can very quickly cut into this speed difference.

*6% difference in drive efficiency, 80kg rider, 15kg bike+gear, 200-watt power output, gradient between 0 and 10%.

Summary

The 2024 Pinion gearbox is a derailleur killer if you prioritise long-term durability, a wide gear range, and an ultra-low-maintenance design.

With the new trigger and drop bar shifters, you no longer need to compromise with a grip shifter. And better yet, these new shifters allow you to change gears under a pedal load.

Yes, they are expensive, but have you seen the price of SRAM XX derailleurs (US $650), chains (US $150), and cassettes (US $600)?

It will take a few years, but due to these changes, I suspect more gearbox mountain and gravel bikes are on their way. I’m also fascinated to see how other gearbox and internal gear hub manufacturers stay competitive in this space.

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We’ve moved from simple elastomer dampers to very advanced hydraulic cartridge dampers that offer incredible levels of adjustability and performance.

The Cannondale ‘Lefty’ is a standout chassis design and has actually been in production since 1999. This suspension strut (as it’s not technically a fork) has always intrigued me as it actually brings about some significant benefits.

Now, if you’re sitting there thinking the Lefty is weird, consider that the wheels on your car only attach to one side, so perhaps this design is more normal than not!

In this article, we will talk about all things Lefty, and why this chassis might just be the future of suspension design. I also want to take you on a journey of other promising designs to better understand the principles behind progress in this space.

I’ve decided to focus on short-travel products, as there are many misconceptions in this space, and I think the design solutions here are especially fascinating. I’ll cover long-travel Lefty solutions in a separate article because, well, things get weird!

We will be discussing some fascinating data coming out of the CyclingAbout Comfort Lab. Krzysztof has already conducted over 30 vibration tests that you can access via the link.

Why Should Bicycles Use Suspension?

Grip, Stability & Control

On rougher surfaces, be it a gravel road or trail, the front suspension helps the tyre maintain contact with the ground, ensuring better grip and control. This is especially noticeable when cornering and braking.

It also helps to reduce the impact force on your hands. As a result, you do not need to grip the bars as tight, allowing for more effortless steering over bumps.

Higher Comfort & Less Fatigue

Vibrations coming up from the road or trail will dissipate in your body causing fatigue. This manifests as discomfort including muscle soreness and hand numbness.

When we graph bicycle vibration with a rigid gravel fork, it looks something like the graph above. The horizontal axis shows the frequency in Hertz, which is the number of vibration cycles that the fork completes in one second. The vertical axis shows the amplitude, which is more or less the severity of the vibrations.

As you can see from the graph, suspension can very effectively reduce the vibration severity at low frequencies (eg. 20-40Hz), but we see smaller differences as we get into higher frequencies (eg. 40-100Hz).

Faster Speeds & Better Efficiency

A bike with suspension often rolls over an object more easily, therefore maintaining speed. This is because the suspension components (which include your tyres) can absorb more of the bump, meaning your bike and body will lift up and down much less.

This is actually an energy-saving for your legs on flat and uphill gradients.

Fun & Enjoyment

Ultimately, bikes are mostly about fun and enjoyment for most people. Having more grip and control, increasing comfort, and being faster are all ways to unlock extra enjoyment.

Ok, let’s now take a close look at the Lefty design.

Cannondale Lefty

Why is the Lefty design single-legged and upside down?

Weight for weight, Lefty’s are lab-tested to be both stiffer and stronger than typical suspension fork designs. This is in part thanks to the fact they’re upside-down, which positions the thickest and stiffest portion of the Lefty where leverage is greatest – the head tube.

Additionally, the lower assembly, which includes the axle, is forged and machined out of a single chunk of aluminium to further maximise the stiffness-to-weight ratio.

Why does the Lefty use needle bearings?

Leftys can be smoother and more sensitive too, which is especially important on short travel products as they firm up so rapidly.

Regular forks with round tubes often move on four plastic or Teflon-lined metal bushings, which are the main contact points between the upper and lower assemblies. These bushings experience friction that needs to be overcome when the fork moves into its travel, and they even bind a bit as the fork flexes.

In comparison, the Lefty slides up and down on one set of needle bearings and just one bushing. These bearings can still roll and move as the Lefty flexes, allowing the suspension to track better over big and edgy bumps, in particular.

Cannondale says there is around 140% more friction in a typical fork when static, and 75% more when the fork is moving – graph HERE.

Why don’t we use needle bearings on typical suspension forks?

It’s very challenging (or rather cost-prohibitive) to run sets of needle bearings on two keyed stanchions. This is due to the alignment between both legs which needs to be near-perfect in multiple axes, with very tight manufacturing tolerance. If the manufacturer doesn’t get this right, the product can end up with additional friction and potential binding.

Achieving a tight tolerance and mirror finish on two shafts and a few sets of bushings is much easier, and significantly cheaper.

How does the wheel track straight with only one leg?

The secret is found high in the upper assembly where three needle-bearing surfaces create a triangle-in-triangle interface that prevents the shaft from rotating.

Like any air-spring fork, you can easily adjust the spring stiffness with a shock pump, and a hydraulic damper provides precise control over the Lefty’s movement up and down.

Why is the Cannondale Lefty so uncommon?

Ultimately, the price is very high compared to a regular fork due to the intensive manufacturing process and small product volumes. This makes spare parts uncommon, and the maintenance needs to be conducted at Cannondale service centres. Various patents also prevent other brands from manufacturing similar products.

But I must say, having had a few Leftys over the years, I’ve found them all to work exceptionally. I especially enjoyed riding the Oliver gravel fork, which shocked me with how just 30mm travel could add so much grip and control when things got rough.

Unlike most suspension systems, the Oliver isn’t designed to sag into its travel, so it feels firmer off the top than most forks. This is to ensure the suspension doesn’t bob on smoother surfaces.

However, the downside to this firm tune is that the suspension does a poor job of absorbing high-frequency vibration, which we verified in a Comfort Lab test. Krzysztof actually found virtually zero difference between the Lefty being locked and unlocked at 35kph on a fast gravel road.

Let’s now put Cannondale’s Lefty to the side and discuss an all-new carbon fibre ‘lefty’ that can handle high-frequently vibration.

Motion La City

In terms of feel, the Motion La City is almost the opposite of the Lefty Oliver.

This comfort-oriented product is easily the most sensitive suspension system I’ve ever tested, in fact, there is so little friction that I was constantly checking my front tyre hadn’t gone flat.

The secret to its sensitivity is that there are no seals, air springs, dampers, or bushings to create friction. Instead, a small carbon leaf spring and linkage do all the work.

Interestingly, the carbon spring is pulled rather than compressed, which allows the suspension to be ultra-soft off the top before firming right up. As a result, your bike glides over small bumps. There’s also an anti-dive link that helps to isolate any braking forces, preventing the suspension from bogging down under hard braking.

The La City is incredibly light. When built into a carbon single strut chassis, this 50mm travel fork is just 1kg/2.2lb. But the spring and link can be built into a fork with a second hollow leg that suits regular front wheels too.

The beauty of a simple and elegant design like this is not its weight, but the fact it requires virtually zero maintenance. This is perfect for hardworking commuting, bikepacking, and fleet bikes.

Ok, the La City sounds pretty amazing, so what are the downsides?

There is no adjustability and no lock-out switch either, so the suspension will bob while you pedal. There is also no damper element, which would normally prevent a fork from bouncing uncontrollably.

This might sound like a recipe for extreme bounciness, however, I never found the La City to feel overwhelmed within its intended use (urban). You can just sit down, pedal along and enjoy its comfort.

There is another interesting leaf spring carbon fork design that I’d now like to show you.

Lauf Grit SL

The Lauf Grit SL employs 12 glass fibre springs to provide 30mm of maintenance-free travel, all in an impressively light 850-gram package (1.9lb).

Like the La City, there is no lockout switch, no adjustability, and no damper, so after a few intense impacts, you might have to deal with some excess energy built up in the springs. The Grit SL is, therefore, best for gravel roads, rather than rough trails.

Like the Cannondale Lefty, this fork doesn’t seem to attenuate vibration better than a rigid carbon fork on fast gravel roads. In fact, according to our data, the best rigid fork might actually provide a marginally smoother ride at 35km/h on a gravel road.

To understand how a rigid fork can possibly provide a more comfortable ride than a suspension fork, we now need to understand what happens when your front wheel encounters bumps.

Upon impact, your fork – be it rigid or suspended – compresses backwards and rebounds forwards. This fore-aft movement is sometimes referred to as ‘splay’, and a high degree of it can be quite effective at damping vibrations.

According to data from Specialized, splay can make you faster up to a certain surface roughness, where suspension forks become more effective. This data is backed up by a Bicycle Quarterly test that found a fork with lots of splay can be as fast as a suspension fork on a rumble strip test.

But it’s important to note that the Grit SL still offers great comfort on fast gravel roads, and you get the advantage of extra grip, control, and comfort on rougher surfaces.

Ok, so what if we wanted the high splay of a carbon rigid fork, the sensitivity of a Motion leaf spring, and the damping system, needle bearings, and lockout of a Lefty?

HiRide Sterra

We would end up with the HiRide Sterra. You might have seen this suspension fork featured on the BMC URS LT gravel bike, but it’s also available as a separate product.

The Sterra has the aesthetic of a carbon fork, and that’s because the lower legs are indeed made from carbon fibre. But it’s inside the steerer is where the real magic happens.

The fork steerer is home to a coil spring, as well as a hydraulic cartridge damper that controls the speed of the spring up and down. This unit offers just 20mm travel, which suits the surface roughness of gravel roads, but it can be surprisingly effective at isolating you from larger impacts too.

However, it’s on fast gravel roads (with high-frequency vibration) where this fork shines.

Most short-travel suspension products employ air springs, which are easy to adjust to your body weight and riding style. However, the many seals of an air spring add to the overall friction, so HiRide designed the Sterra with a coil spring and smooth needle bearings to keep friction to a minimum.

In the CyclingAbout Comfort Lab tests, coil spring products are consistently the most effective at damping vibration. Notable products include the Redshift seatpost, Kinekt stem, and Specialized FutureShock.

While the Sterra is not as sensitive as the Motion fork, it is designed to run with sag, so it will not require the same big impact to get moving as the Lefty. And when you don’t need the suspension travel, you can transform this fork into a rigid one with the simple twist of the lockout dial.

Interestingly, the fork blades offer a similar amount of splay to the most comfortable fork in our comfort lab tests (OPEN U-Turn). According to Tour Magazin data, the Open U-Turn is nearly identical in a fore-aft deflection test (65N/mm vs 68N/mm), adding comfort (and likely speed) outside of the suspension system on fast gravel roads.

The carbon fork blades are also much more aerodynamic than a fork with round tubes, and offer an aesthetic that better matches a gravel bike.

As the moving components of the Sterra are all sealed away and hidden from the elements, service intervals are 3-5x longer than most suspension forks too.

You can optimise this fork for your body weight and riding style with multiple spring rates and preload spacers. In terms of weight, it’s about 800 grams heavier than a rigid fork, which puts it in the ballpark of the Lefty Oliver.

Summary

So, are Lefty’s the future of suspension tech?

I suspect we’ll see more single-strut products in the future. While the weird looks might put off some, the chassis is undoubtedly stiff, light, high-performing and well-proven too. And the reduction in static and moving friction is a big benefit for a short travel application as they stiffen up so rapidly.

Watch out for leftys with increased sensitivity to high-speed vibration, as manufacturers further optimise their products around gravel and road use.

Leaf-spring designs (like the Motion La City) actually suit a lefty chassis perfectly, as the linkage occupies so little space. It’s cool that the leaf spring designs don’t require any maintenance either.

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